EKSPLORASI ECO PRINTING UNTUK PRODUK SUSTAINABLE FASHION - Maria Stevin Herlina; Felix Ari Dartono; S Setyawan (Ornamen, 2018)
ABSTRAKPerancangan produk tekstil ini menggunakan prinsip yang ekologis guna memberikan alternatif produksi tekstil untuk mengurangi dampak pencemaran lingkungan akibat industri tekstil. Perancangan ini berdasarkan konsep desain yang berkelanjutan (sustainable design) untuk mewujudkan produk fesyen yang ramah lingkungan. Metode yang dipakai yaitu metode desain dengan melewati tiga tahap yakni, metode perancangan, konsep dan visualisasi. Metode perancangan melewati tahap analisis permasalahan, strategi pemecahan masalah, pengumpulan data, uji coba, dan menentukan gagasan awal perancangan. Konsep meliputi landasan pemikiran untuk perancangan desain tugas akhir. Visualisasi yakni tahap memvisualisasikan konsep rencana perancangan yang sudah ditulis dalam proses perancangan. Produk yang dihasilkan adalah produk fesyen yang ramah lingkungan (sustainable fashion). Hasil perancangan tugas akhir ini menghasilkan enam desain pakaian wanita dengan tema Djati Boemi. Teknik yang digunakan dalam perancangan ini adalah eco printing. Eksplorasi teknik eco printing dengan memanfaatkan daun jati sebagai motif utama. Ekstrak dari pewarna alami kayu secang dan kulit buah jelawe yang sering digunakan dalam tekstil tradisi Indonesia digunakan sebagai warna dasar kain. Eksplorasi eco printing ini akan menghasilkan karya etis, estetis, unik, dan mempunyai nilai kebaharuan yang tinggi. Bahan yang digunakan adalah sutera lokal yang memiliki daya serap sangat baik pada pe alami. Pada masa mendatang diharapkan adanya eksplorasi-eksplorasi teknik pewarnaan teksil dengan pertimbangan desain berkesinambungan sehingga semakin banyak potensi baru pengembangan desain produk fesyen ramah lingkungan yang memiliki dampak positif bagi kekayaan khasanah pertekstilan di Indonesia. Kata Kunci: Eco printing, sustainable fashion, daun jati, pewarna alami ABSTRACTThis textile product designing was realized within the ecological principles guideline in a framework of providing an alternative for textile production in reducing the textile industry’s environmental pollutive effects. It was grounded on a sustainable design concept, aiming at bringing about environmental friendly fashion products. The method made use of here was a design method which pertains three subsequent parts, i.e. designing, conceptualising and visualisation phases. We designed through a number of phases: problems analysis, problem solving strategy, data collection, testing and fixing the initial concept of designing. The conceptualization phase included the basic thoughts for the final assignment design. In the visualisation phase we visualized the design concept which was outlined in the designing process. The products we wanted to have would be sustainable fashion products. This final assignment designing has given birth eventually to six women clothing designs within the Djati Boemi theme. The technique utilized here in the production was the eco printing one.Technical exploration of eco printing was made true by making use of teak leaves as the main motive. Natural extracts of Caesalpinia wood and Terminalia jewelica peel, which are familiar to the traditional textile production in Indonesia, were used as the basic fabric dying. The exploration was hoped to produce ethical, esthetical and unique textile works, which would have a high novelty value. The fabric was made of local natural silk threads, which were known as having excellent adsorbent quality to natural coloring agents. We are hopeful that, in the future, textile dying explorations will continuously be done so that there will be more potentials in developing eco friendly fashion products which will obviously have positive impacts to the Indonesian textile treasury.Keywords: Eco printing, sustainable fashion, teak leaves, natural dying.