PAKAIAN TAQWA: REPRESENTASI AGAMA DAN BUDAYA DI PUSAT KEKUASAAN JAWA - Nor Kholis (Research and Development Center for Guidance for Religious Societies and Religious Services, the Research and Development and Education and Training Agency of the Ministry of Religious Affairs of the Republic of Indonesia (MORA), 2019)
Akulturasi agama dan budaya sebagai media dakwah di Nusantara tidak bisa dilepaskan dari peran ulama (Walisanga) dan Pemerintah (elite kerajaan). Walisanga sebagai pembuat konsep dakwah, sementara raja memiliki peran sebagai penjaganya. Hal ini telah dilakukan secara turun temurun mulai dari era Demak sampai Mataram Islam. Beberapa media dakwah memiliki nilai-nilai filosofis keislaman sehingga masih tetap dilestarikan sampai saat ini, seperti wayang, gamelan, tembang dan pakaian. Artikel ini mendiskusikan pakaian adat Keraton Yogyakarta untuk melihat bentuk interpretasi pihak keraton terhadap pakaian tersebut. Penelitian ini menggunakan pendekatan emik, untuk mendiskripsikan objek pakaian taqwa sebagaimana hasil wawancara mendalam yang disampaikan oleh informan. Pemilihan informan didasarkan atas keluasaan informasi serta otoritasnya di lingkungan keraton. Analisis penelitian dilakukan dengan metode filosofis – interpretative. Hasil penelitian menunjukan pakaian taqwa memiliki dua aspek, secara internal dan eksternal. Pertama, unsur-unsur pakaian taqwa baik secara implisit maupun eksplisit diklaim oleh pihak Keraton Yogyakarta serat dengan nilai-nilai Islami sehingga bisa dijadikan sebagai salah satu media dakwah. Kedua, pakaian taqwa menjadi identitas sosial oleh Keraton Yogyakarta sebagai pewaris resmi penguasa tanah jawa Mataram Islam. Kata kunci: Pakaian adat, media dakwah, identitas sosial Acculturation of religion and culture as media of da’wah in the archipelago cannot be separated from the role of ulama (Walisanga) and the government (royal elite). Walisanga is the maker of the concept of da’wah, while the king has a role as a guardian. This has been done from generation to generation starting from the Demak era to the Islamic Mataram. Some da’wah media have islamic philosophical values so that they are still preserved today, such as wayang, gamelan, song and clothing. This article discusses the traditional clothing of the Yogyakarta palace to see the interpretations of the keraton to the clothing. This study uses an emic approach, to describe the object of piety as the results of in-depth interviews delivered by the informant. The selection of informants is based on the vast information and their authority within the palace environment. The analysis of the research was carried out using philosophical-interpretative methods. The results shows that taqwa clothing has two aspects, internally and externally. First, the elements of pious clothing are implicitly or explicitly claimed by the Yogyakarta Sultanate is filled with islamic values so that it can be used as one of the da’wah media. Second, taqwa clothing became a social identity by the Yogyakarta palace as the official heir to the Islamic Mataram javanese land. Keywords: Traditional Clothing, Da’wah Media, Social Identity