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All Journal Narada : Jurnal Desain dan Seni Serat Rupa: Journal of Design
Budianto, Erica Rachel
Universitas Kristen Petra
Arts Humanities Environmental Science Languange, Linguistic, Communication & Media Social Sciences

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JALUR REMPAH DAN KARAKTERISTIK BATIK BUKETAN PERANAKAN TIONGHOA TIGA GENERASI Erica Rachel Budianto; Yan Yan Sunarya
Serat Rupa: Journal of Design Vol 5 No 2 (2021): SRJD - JULY
Publisher : Faculty of Humanities and Creative Industries, Maranatha Christian University (formerly Faculty of Fine Arts and Design)

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.28932/srjd.v5i2.3799

Abstract

The huge demand of spices triggered the Europeans to begin their voyage to South East Asia in the fifteenth century. But actually, the Chinese had known the maritime spice trading routes to South East Asia long before the European did. The focus of this research is the linkage between spice trading routes, acculturation in Java and its influence to Peranakan Chinese batik at the northern coast of Java. In this research, the study case is Oey Soe Tjoen buketan batik from Kedungwuni. Qualitative methods is used in this research, while the applied theories are acculturation theory and aesthetic morphology theory. The aesthetic morphology is utilized to identify both the characteristics similarities and differences from the first, second and third generation's Oey Soe Tjoen buketan batik. The aim of this research is to provide information about the connection between maritime spice trading routes and the evolution of textile in Indonesia. The acculturation in Java resulted in Peranakan Chinese batik, which also contributes to the development of batik cloth in Java. Moreover, this research can be a reference source for academicians, collectors and batik enthusiasts about the characteristic differences from the first, second and third generation of Oey Soe Tjoen batik. Keywords: aesthetic morphology, buketan batik, Oey Soe Tjoen
KOMUNIKASI FASHION DALAM KEBAYA ENCIM DAN BATIK PERANAKAN TIONGHOA: SOSIALISASI DAN DIFERENSIASI Budianto, Erica Rachel; Bahaduri, Berti Alia; Rismantojo, Sandy
Narada : Jurnal Desain dan Seni Vol 10, No 3 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Mercu Buana

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.22441/narada.2023/v10.i3.002

Abstract

Fashion, clothing and culture are communication and cultural phenomenon, in which fashion communication has both socialization and differentiation function. In the realm of fashion and clothing, the forming of social groups and personal identities are established through continuous communication process. This phenomenon occurred in the development of kebaya encim and Chinese Peranakan batik at Java in the 19th century. Kebaya encim was a type of kebaya worn by Peranakan Chinese women, therefore it had visual characteristics which were eminently influenced by Chinese culture. The Chinese Peranakan women used to wear kebaya as upper clothes, combined with Peranakan Chinese batik cloth as skirt At the beginning, kebaya encim and Peranakan Chinese batik emulated the kebaya and batik characteristics worn by Dutch women in Java. This was due to the desire of Peranakans to acquire equal privilidge with the Dutch in the society.This research aims to define the role of fashion communication in the development of kebaya encim and Peranakan Chinese batik in the 19th century at Java Island. Therefore, this research utilises descriptive qualitative approach. Theories which are used in this research are Barnard's fashion communication theory and Lukman's mimicry and hibridity theory. This research confirms that there is fashion communication process that can be emphasized from socialization and differentiation function with mimicry and hybridity phenomenon in kebaya encim and Peranakan Chinese batik. Socialization can be seen from mimicry of Dutch's kebaya and batik style to obtain social equality. Moreover there is also differentiation function, since the Chinese Peranakans made some special adjustments toward their own kebaya and batik characteristics in order to be more suitable with their culture.
Co-Authors Berti Alia Bahaduri Sandy Rismantojo Yan Yan Sunarya