Salsabila Bara Putri
Master Program of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia

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Innovation of Lipophilic Vitamin C Derivative (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) Using Nanocarrier Technologies For Skin Matrix Restructuring: A Scoping Review Salsabila Bara Putri; Andang Miatmoko; Noorma Rosita; Firmansyah Ardian Ramadhani
JURNAL FARMASI DAN ILMU KEFARMASIAN INDONESIA Vol. 13 No. 2 (2026): JURNAL FARMASI DAN ILMU KEFARMASIAN INDONESIA
Publisher : Universitas Airlangga

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.20473/jfiki.v13i22026.231-239

Abstract

Background: L-ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant and critical cofactor for collagen synthesis; however, its clinical application is heavily constrained by its high hydrophilicity, poor passive stratum corneum penetration, and rapid chemical instability. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC), a stable lipophilic ester derivative, has emerged as a promising alternative capable of enhancing dermal bioavailability at near-neutral pH. Objective: This scoping review systematically maps the research landscape regarding the molecular mechanisms, clinical efficacy, patent innovations, and lipid-based nanocarrier delivery systems (specifically, Nanostructured Lipid Carriers [NLCs] and liposomes) of THDC for skin matrix restructuring. Methods: Following the JBI methodology and PRISMA-ScR guidelines, a systematic literature and patent search was performed across the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO), World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), PubMed, Scopus, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar. Studies evaluating topical THDC formulations, synergistic antioxidant combinations, patent claims, and nanocarrier systems were extracted and analyzed. Results: Clinical evidence demonstrates that topical applications of THDC (5%–30%), especially when combined with co-antioxidants such as Acetyl Zingerone (AZ) or retinoids, significantly reduced fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation while improving skin elasticity and epidermal barrier function within 8–12 weeks. Mechanistically, THDC stimulates dermal collagen synthesis, upregulates Nrf2 pathways, and downregulates matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9). Furthermore, encapsulation into NLCs and biomimetic liposomes overcomes the degradation and expulsion of active ingredients, enabling sustained release and deeper dermal penetration. Conclusion: The integration of THDC into lipid nanocarrier systems represents a highly effective, low-irritation approach that shifts topical anti-aging interventions from superficial protection to comprehensive skin matrix repair.