JURNAL FARMASI DAN ILMU KEFARMASIAN INDONESIA
Vol. 13 No. 2 (2026): JURNAL FARMASI DAN ILMU KEFARMASIAN INDONESIA

Innovation of Lipophilic Vitamin C Derivative (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate) Using Nanocarrier Technologies For Skin Matrix Restructuring: A Scoping Review

Salsabila Bara Putri (Master Program of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia)
Andang Miatmoko (Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia
Skin and Cosmetic Technology (SCT) Center of Excellence, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia
Pharmaceutics and Delivery Systems for Drugs,)

Noorma Rosita (Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia
Skin and Cosmetic Technology (SCT) Center of Excellence, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia
Pharmaceutics and Delivery Systems for Drugs,)

Firmansyah Ardian Ramadhani (Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia
Pharmaceutics and Delivery Systems for Drugs, Cosmetics, and Nanomedicine Research Group, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, Indonesia)



Article Info

Publish Date
31 Aug 2026

Abstract

Background: L-ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant and critical cofactor for collagen synthesis; however, its clinical application is heavily constrained by its high hydrophilicity, poor passive stratum corneum penetration, and rapid chemical instability. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC), a stable lipophilic ester derivative, has emerged as a promising alternative capable of enhancing dermal bioavailability at near-neutral pH. Objective: This scoping review systematically maps the research landscape regarding the molecular mechanisms, clinical efficacy, patent innovations, and lipid-based nanocarrier delivery systems (specifically, Nanostructured Lipid Carriers [NLCs] and liposomes) of THDC for skin matrix restructuring. Methods: Following the JBI methodology and PRISMA-ScR guidelines, a systematic literature and patent search was performed across the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO), World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), PubMed, Scopus, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar. Studies evaluating topical THDC formulations, synergistic antioxidant combinations, patent claims, and nanocarrier systems were extracted and analyzed. Results: Clinical evidence demonstrates that topical applications of THDC (5%–30%), especially when combined with co-antioxidants such as Acetyl Zingerone (AZ) or retinoids, significantly reduced fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation while improving skin elasticity and epidermal barrier function within 8–12 weeks. Mechanistically, THDC stimulates dermal collagen synthesis, upregulates Nrf2 pathways, and downregulates matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9). Furthermore, encapsulation into NLCs and biomimetic liposomes overcomes the degradation and expulsion of active ingredients, enabling sustained release and deeper dermal penetration. Conclusion: The integration of THDC into lipid nanocarrier systems represents a highly effective, low-irritation approach that shifts topical anti-aging interventions from superficial protection to comprehensive skin matrix repair.

Copyrights © 2026






Journal Info

Abbrev

JFIKI

Publisher

Subject

Chemistry Education Health Professions Medicine & Pharmacology Other

Description

Jurnal ini adalah jurnal peer-review nasional, yang diterbitkan dua kali dalam membahas tentang topik-topik hasil penelitian di bidang pelayanan dan praktik kefarmasian, konsultasi masyarakat, teknologi kefarmasian serta disiplin ilmu kesehatan yang terkait dengan erat. Jurnal ini memfokuskan pada ...