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All Journal Brikolase : Jurnal Kajian Teori, Praktik dan Wacana Seni Budaya Rupa Dewa Ruci : Jurnal Pengkajian dan Penciptaan Seni
Linda Utami
Institut Seni Indonesia Surakarta
Arts Humanities Education Languange, Linguistic, Communication & Media Other

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An analysis of the dress of the female warriors of the palace of Mangkunegara I at the 1991 palace festival Linda Utami; Sunarmi Sunarmi; Rahayu Adi Prabowo
Dewa Ruci: Jurnal Pengkajian dan Penciptaan Seni Vol. 18 No. 2 (2023)
Publisher : Pascasarjana Institut Seni Indonesia Surakarta

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.33153/dewaruci.v18i2.5431

Abstract

The military apparatus in each region is established to maintain its sovereignty. The Prajurti women of the Mangkunegara Palace were an elite group of soldiers who participated in Raden Mas Said's struggle. As an extraordinary group of warriors in Mangkunegaran history, they have unique clothing that needs further research. The palace attire is one of the important cultural heritages that must be preserved. In Javanese culture, it is taught that dressing appropriately is in accordance with guidelines, situations, and conditions. This article discusses the attire of the Prajurti women of the Mangkunegara Palace, which was reintroduced during the Keraton Festival in 1991 by Trenggono. The research used descriptive analysis techniques, describing the research subject through collected data without analysis or drawing conclusions. The approach used was the aesthetic morphology approach of Thomas Munro. Based on this, this research explains the women's clothing of the Mangkunegara Palace Soldiers by Trenggono, which was displayed at the 1991 Palace Festival. The result shows that there is a discrepancy between the description of the attire of the Prajurti women of the Mangkunegara Palace in Serat Babad Nitik Mangkunegara I and II and the attire created by Trenggono.
Pengaplikasian Motif Busana Dayak Ngaju Menjadi Busana Ready To Wear Linda Utami; Sunarmi Sunarmi; Arif Jati Purnomo; Afifah Nur; Nabila Khoirunisa
Brikolase : Jurnal Kajian Teori, Praktik dan Wacana Seni Budaya Rupa Vol. 17 No. 2 (2025)
Publisher : Institut Seni Indoensia Surakarta

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.33153/brikolase.v17i2.7706

Abstract

Indonesia is rich in art and culture, one of which is the Dayak Ngaju tribe in Central Kalimantan with their traditional clothing full of symbolism, such as the Enggang and Kalalawit motifs. This research aims to transform Dayak Ngaju traditional clothing into ready-to-wear clothing for cultural preservation and promotion. Using the Design Thinking method, the process begins with understanding the philosophy of traditional attire (Empathize), identifying the needs of young people for comfortable and stylish traditional attire (Define), then conceptualizing ideas for simplifying motifs on modern materials using painting techniques (Ideate), and finally creating prototypes (Prototype). Testing results showed positive responses to the design, which blends modernity with authenticity, deemed attractive, boosting confidence, and potentially becoming a trend. However, constructive feedback was received regarding material comfort (polyester that feels hot), motif proportions, garment cuts (sleeves and collars), and the durability of the painting after washing. Further development is recommended in terms of size variations and formal touches. With this approach, it is hoped that the Dayak Ngaju adaptation clothing can preserve culture dynamically, promote innovation, empower the community, and open economic opportunities.
Co-Authors Afifah Nur Arif Jati Purnomo Nabila Khoirunisa Prabowo, Rahayu Adi Sunarmi Sunarmi