<![CDATA[This article applies an experiential design method to develop an avant-garde kebaya that integrates handcrafted local metal accessories. The main issue addressed is a lack of integration between local jewelry craftsmanship and experimental fashion concepts. The authors address the issue by applying a five-stage design thinking framework (empathize, define, ideate, prototype, and test) to experiment with kebaya forms which were transformed into three-dimensional avant-garde fashion silhouette. Data was collected through field observation and co-design process with the local metal artisan Nio El from Sidoarj. Data were qualitatively analyzed using studio-based visual and structural comparative analysis across a spectrum of innovation: from initial form explorations to radical structural deconstruction in the final design outcome. Results were validated through live-model fit testing and panel evaluation. The creative synthesis of textile-based fashion elements and three-dimensional accessories has produced a design concept that suggests the formation of a unique avant-garde aesthetic is viable through a spectrum of innovation possibilities, from minimum to maximum transformation. The conceptual design results imply that the fundamental principles of garment construction, such as the kebaya’s central element of the brooch, the sheer body-wrapping textile, and the wrap skirt construction logic, are viable for generating a distinct avant-garde aesthetic. Ultimately, this practice-led exploration highlights educational implications for higher fashion design curricula seeking to integrate local artisan collaboration into studio practice.]]>
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