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Elianasari Elianasari
Institut Teknologi Sumatera
Agriculture, Biological Sciences & Forestry Chemistry Economics, Econometrics & Finance Industrial & Manufacturing Engineering Medicine & Pharmacology

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THE IDENTIFICATION OF BIOACTIVE COMPOUNDS IN BUTTERFLY PEA (Clitoria ternatea L.) FLOWER SIMPLICIA: A MACROSCOPIC, MICROSCOPIC, AND PHYTOCHEMICAL STUDY Elianasari Elianasari; Herayati Herayati; Kiki Yuli Handayani; Puput Puji Astuti
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 2 No. 2 (2024): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v2i2.2059

Abstract

The butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea L.) is known for its distinctive purple petals. This plant typically grows as an ornamental and can be used as a natural eye remedy and food coloring, safe for human consumption. This study aims to investigate the characteristics and perform a phytochemical screening of the butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea L.). The characteristics of the flower simplicia were examined through macroscopic and microscopic observations, followed by a phytochemical screening process, which included testing for alkaloids, flavonoids, saponins, tannins, and terpenoids/steroids using specific reagents. Additionally, non-specific characteristics, such as moisture content, were analyzed. The results indicate that the flower simplicia has a distinct odor, is tasteless, blue in color, and appears in a dry form. Microscopically, the flower simplicia revealed single grains and thin slices, showing epidermal cell fragments with stomata and crystal fibers with vascular bundles. The phytochemical screening confirmed the presence of alkaloids, saponins, and flavonoids, while tannins and terpenoids/steroids were absent.
FORMULATION AND STABILITY EVALUATION OF NATURAL SHOWER GEL CONTAINING PIPER BETLE HYDROSOL AND WHITETEN™ Elianasari Elianasari; Dina Putri Agustina
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 3 No. 1 (2025): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v3i1.2275

Abstract

The growing interest in natural-based personal care products has encouraged the development of innovative cosmetic formulations, including shower gels. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the physical stability of a shower gel containing Piper betle L. leaf hydrosol and WhiteTen™, a botanical-derived brightening complex. The product was prepared through a four-phase process using ingredients such as Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Menthol, and preservatives, with the pH adjusted to 5.5–6.5. The formulation was evaluated for its organoleptic properties, pH, viscosity, spreadability, rinseability, foam height, and stability under accelerated storage conditions using six temperature cycling periods. The results showed that the shower gel demonstrated stable physical characteristics, including suitable viscosity, good foaming capacity (60 - 80 mm), ease of rinsing (10 seconds), and consistent pH values across different storage temperatures. The incorporation of WhiteTen™ contributed to the product’s brightening potential, enhancing its value as a multifunctional cosmetic. No significant changes were observed in physical appearance or performance after stability testing, indicating that the formulation is stable and suitable for further development as a safe, natural, and functional skincare product.
FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF SACHA INCHI OIL-BASED SERUM AS AN ANTI-AGING COSMETIC Elianasari Elianasari
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 3 No. 2 (2025): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v3i2.2574

Abstract

Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by intrinsic factors (genetic, hormonal, and metabolic) and extrinsic factors (UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle), characterized by decreased collagen and elastin production and increased oxidative stress. Sacha Inchi seed oil is known for its high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids and bioactive compounds such as tocopherols and phenolics, which exhibit antioxidant activity beneficial to skin health. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the physical stability of a facial serum containing Sacha Inchi seed oil (Plukenetia volubilis L.) as a natural anti-aging agent. The formulation was assessed through physical quality tests, including organoleptic properties, homogeneity, spreadability, viscosity, pH, and a cycling stability test over six cycles at 4°C and 40°C to simulate extreme storage conditions. The results showed that the serum maintained its physical stability after the cycling test. No significant changes were observed in organoleptic properties (color, odor, texture), and the formulation remained homogeneous with no phase separation. Viscosity slightly decreased from 3920 to 3643 mPa·s, while spreadability decreased from 13.6 to 9.4 g·cm/s, yet both remained within acceptable cosmetic limits. The pH remained stable between 5.44 and 5.47, aligning with the physiological skin pH range (4.5–6.5). These findings indicate that Sacha Inchi oil can be effectively formulated into a physically stable serum and holds promise for development as a natural active ingredient in anti-aging skincare products.
Physical Stability Evaluation of an Anti-Aging Night Cream Based on Snail Mucin and Niacinamide Elianasari Elianasari; Rafi Ahmad; Siti Berkah Naimah; Nabila Najwa Hazar; Rera Destina; Amalia Lathifah Widyadari
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 4 No. 1 (2026): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v4i1.2832

Abstract

Skin aging is associated with impaired barrier function, reduced hydration, and degradation of collagen and elastin, which may be accelerated by environmental exposure. Snail secretion filtrate, commonly known as snail mucin, and niacinamide are cosmetic active ingredients with potential roles in supporting hydration, skin regeneration, barrier repair, and the management of visible signs of skin aging. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the preliminary physical stability of an anti-aging night cream based on snail mucin and niacinamide. The formulation was prepared as an oil-in-water emulsion containing 3.3% snail secretion filtrate and 2.4% niacinamide. Physical evaluations included organoleptic observation, homogeneity, pH, initial viscosity, emulsion type, spreadability, and a cycling test at 4°C and 40°C. The results showed that the cream was white in color, had a melon fragrance with a slight base odor, exhibited a semisolid texture, was homogeneous, and was classified as an oil-in-water emulsion. The pH increased from 6.21 to 6.47 after the cycling test, while spreadability decreased from 6.95 cm to 6.45 cm; however, both values remained within acceptable ranges for topical preparations. The initial viscosity indicated semisolid characteristics, with values ranging from 7040 to 1935 mPa·s at rotational speeds of 6–30 rpm. No phase separation or significant organoleptic changes were observed after testing. The snail mucin–niacinamide night cream formulation demonstrated good preliminary physical stability; however, further studies on long-term stability, safety, and skin efficacy are required.
Co-Authors Amalia Lathifah Widyadari Dina Putri Agustina Herayati Herayati Kiki Yuli Handayani Nabila Najwa Hazar Puput Puji Astuti Rafi Ahmad Rera Destina Siti Berkah Naimah