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Physical Stability Evaluation of an Anti-Aging Night Cream Based on Snail Mucin and Niacinamide Elianasari Elianasari; Rafi Ahmad; Siti Berkah Naimah; Nabila Najwa Hazar; Rera Destina; Amalia Lathifah Widyadari
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 4 No. 1 (2026): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v4i1.2832

Abstract

Skin aging is associated with impaired barrier function, reduced hydration, and degradation of collagen and elastin, which may be accelerated by environmental exposure. Snail secretion filtrate, commonly known as snail mucin, and niacinamide are cosmetic active ingredients with potential roles in supporting hydration, skin regeneration, barrier repair, and the management of visible signs of skin aging. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the preliminary physical stability of an anti-aging night cream based on snail mucin and niacinamide. The formulation was prepared as an oil-in-water emulsion containing 3.3% snail secretion filtrate and 2.4% niacinamide. Physical evaluations included organoleptic observation, homogeneity, pH, initial viscosity, emulsion type, spreadability, and a cycling test at 4°C and 40°C. The results showed that the cream was white in color, had a melon fragrance with a slight base odor, exhibited a semisolid texture, was homogeneous, and was classified as an oil-in-water emulsion. The pH increased from 6.21 to 6.47 after the cycling test, while spreadability decreased from 6.95 cm to 6.45 cm; however, both values remained within acceptable ranges for topical preparations. The initial viscosity indicated semisolid characteristics, with values ranging from 7040 to 1935 mPa·s at rotational speeds of 6–30 rpm. No phase separation or significant organoleptic changes were observed after testing. The snail mucin–niacinamide night cream formulation demonstrated good preliminary physical stability; however, further studies on long-term stability, safety, and skin efficacy are required.
Comparison of Extraction Methods for Green Betel Leaf (Piper betle L.) Based on Stock Solution Concentration Herayati Herayati; Amalia Lathifah Widyadari; Deviana Safitri; Firlina Liovita
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 4 No. 1 (2026): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v4i1.2976

Abstract

Green betel leaf (Piper betle L.) is a medicinal plant widely recognized for its bioactive compounds, including flavonoids, alkaloids, tannins, saponins, and essential oils, which exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory activities. The extraction method plays a crucial role in determining the efficiency of bioactive compound recovery from plant materials. This study aimed to compare several extraction methods for green betel leaf based on the concentration of the resulting stock solution as an indicator of extraction efficiency. Fresh green betel leaves were processed into dried simplicia and extracted using five different methods: maceration, partition and fractionation, digestion, ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE), and Soxhlet extraction. Methanol, n-hexane, and distilled water were used as extraction solvents according to the characteristics of each method. The concentration of each stock solution was calculated from the dry extract residue obtained after solvent evaporation. The results showed that UAE produced the highest stock solution concentration (2.4% w/v), followed by Soxhlet extraction (0.8% w/v), digestion (0.04% w/v), maceration (0.01% w/v), and partition and fractionation (0.0003% w/v). The superior performance of UAE was attributed to acoustic cavitation, which enhanced mass transfer while minimizing thermal degradation of heat-sensitive bioactive compounds. These findings demonstrate that UAE is the most effective extraction technique among the evaluated methods for obtaining bioactive compounds from green betel leaves and has considerable potential for developing natural cosmetic ingredients.