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A NEGOTIATING GENDER AND CULTURE: A SEMIOTIC ANALYSIS OF ANGGINI'S COSTUME IN WIRO SABLENG 1995 AND 2018 Puspitasari, Feny; Piliang, Yasraf Amir; Kahdar, Kahfiati; Waskita, Dana
Home Economics Journal Vol. 9 No. 2 (2025): October
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Yogyakarta

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.21831/hej.v9i2.80463

Abstract

Different cinematic contexts reflect filmmakers' varied perspectives and intentions, shaping the visual ideologies presented on screen. One principal means by which filmmakers articulate such ideologies is through costume design. Costumes function not merely as clothing but as symbolic artefacts that convey social, cultural, and ideological meanings. They play a vital role in shaping audience perceptions of characters and their roles while revealing more profound insights into identity, values, and worldviews. Previous research has highlighted how costumes contribute to character identity, particularly in terms of status, role, and psychological attributes. This study employs Roland Barthes’ semiotic theory and content analysis to explore the denotative and connotative meanings of costumes. The aim is to deepen the understanding of costume as a visual medium and to examine its ideological function, particularly in character representation. The analysis focuses on the character Anggini in the Wiro Sableng series (1995) and the movie (2018). Findings indicate that Anggini’s costume in the 1995 series reflects traditional cultural values, emphasising modesty, elegance, and femininity. In contrast, the 2018 film's costumes portray female strength more explicitly, influenced by Western aesthetics and the film’s multinational context. A structural costume pattern for female warrior characters typically consists of traditional female attire on the upper body, accompanied by male or unisex garments below for enhanced agility, and functional footwear for combat. These findings offer practical insights for emerging costume or fashion designers working with female warrior archetypes in Indonesian cinema.
PENGEMBANGAN BENANG SISA TENUN MAJALAYA MENJADI BENANG PAKAN TAMBAH Arliesa, Yulvi; Kahdar, Kahfiati
Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik: Majalah Ilmiah Vol. 38 No. 1 (2021): DINAMIKA KERAJINAN DAN BATIK : MAJALAH ILMIAH
Publisher : Balai Besar Standardisasi dan Pelayanan Jasa Industri Kerajinan dan Batik

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.22322/dkb.v38i1.6589

Abstract

Majalaya merupakan salah satu daerah penghasil tenun di Indonesia. Dalam proses pembuatan tenun terdapat limbah tekstil berupa benang sisa yang tidak bisa digunakan kembali dan kemudian dibuang. Sistem produksi tekstil tersebut merupakan sistem linear, yaitu sistem yang berujung pada pembuangan pada masa akhir pakai suatu produk sehingga menyebabkan banyaknya limbah, Perlu dilakukan peralihan dari sistem yang semula linear ke sistem sirkular untuk mengurangi limbah dan memaksimalkan pemanfaatan sumber daya. Salah satu hal yang bisa dilakukan untuk menerapkan sistem sirkular adalah dengan melakukan upcycling. Metode yang digunakan adalah melakukan eksperimen untuk mengolah limbah benang tenun Majalaya menjadi benang pakan tambah supaya bisa digunakan kembali dalam proses tenun. Penelitian ini menunjukkan bawa limbah benang  masih bisa dimanfaatkan kembali melalui beberapa tahap pengolahan dan sistem sirkular memungkinkan untuk diaplikasikan dalam industri tekstil meskipun dalam bentuk dan teknologi yang sederhana.