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All Journal MAKNA: Jurnal Kajian Komunikasi, Bahasa dan Budaya Ars: Jurnal Seni Rupa dan Desain Craft Home Economics Journal East Asian Journal of Multidisciplinary Research (EAJMR) Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik: Majalah Ilmiah
Kahfiati Kahdar
Kelompok Keahlian Kriya Tekstil, Fakultas Seni Rupa dan Desain, Institut Teknologi Bandung, Jalan Ganesa No. 10 Bandung 40132
Arts Humanities Computer Science & IT Decision Sciences, Operations Research & Management Economics, Econometrics & Finance Education Engineering Environmental Science Industrial & Manufacturing Engineering Languange, Linguistic, Communication & Media Social Sciences Other

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A NEGOTIATING GENDER AND CULTURE: A SEMIOTIC ANALYSIS OF ANGGINI'S COSTUME IN WIRO SABLENG 1995 AND 2018 Puspitasari, Feny; Piliang, Yasraf Amir; Kahdar, Kahfiati; Waskita, Dana
Home Economics Journal Vol. 9 No. 2 (2025): October
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Yogyakarta

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.21831/hej.v9i2.80463

Abstract

Different cinematic contexts reflect filmmakers' varied perspectives and intentions, shaping the visual ideologies presented on screen. One principal means by which filmmakers articulate such ideologies is through costume design. Costumes function not merely as clothing but as symbolic artefacts that convey social, cultural, and ideological meanings. They play a vital role in shaping audience perceptions of characters and their roles while revealing more profound insights into identity, values, and worldviews. Previous research has highlighted how costumes contribute to character identity, particularly in terms of status, role, and psychological attributes. This study employs Roland Barthes’ semiotic theory and content analysis to explore the denotative and connotative meanings of costumes. The aim is to deepen the understanding of costume as a visual medium and to examine its ideological function, particularly in character representation. The analysis focuses on the character Anggini in the Wiro Sableng series (1995) and the movie (2018). Findings indicate that Anggini’s costume in the 1995 series reflects traditional cultural values, emphasising modesty, elegance, and femininity. In contrast, the 2018 film's costumes portray female strength more explicitly, influenced by Western aesthetics and the film’s multinational context. A structural costume pattern for female warrior characters typically consists of traditional female attire on the upper body, accompanied by male or unisex garments below for enhanced agility, and functional footwear for combat. These findings offer practical insights for emerging costume or fashion designers working with female warrior archetypes in Indonesian cinema.
PENGEMBANGAN BENANG SISA TENUN MAJALAYA MENJADI BENANG PAKAN TAMBAH Arliesa, Yulvi; Kahdar, Kahfiati
Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik: Majalah Ilmiah Vol. 38 No. 1 (2021): DINAMIKA KERAJINAN DAN BATIK : MAJALAH ILMIAH
Publisher : Balai Besar Standardisasi dan Pelayanan Jasa Industri Kerajinan dan Batik

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.22322/dkb.v38i1.6589

Abstract

Majalaya merupakan salah satu daerah penghasil tenun di Indonesia. Dalam proses pembuatan tenun terdapat limbah tekstil berupa benang sisa yang tidak bisa digunakan kembali dan kemudian dibuang. Sistem produksi tekstil tersebut merupakan sistem linear, yaitu sistem yang berujung pada pembuangan pada masa akhir pakai suatu produk sehingga menyebabkan banyaknya limbah, Perlu dilakukan peralihan dari sistem yang semula linear ke sistem sirkular untuk mengurangi limbah dan memaksimalkan pemanfaatan sumber daya. Salah satu hal yang bisa dilakukan untuk menerapkan sistem sirkular adalah dengan melakukan upcycling. Metode yang digunakan adalah melakukan eksperimen untuk mengolah limbah benang tenun Majalaya menjadi benang pakan tambah supaya bisa digunakan kembali dalam proses tenun. Penelitian ini menunjukkan bawa limbah benang  masih bisa dimanfaatkan kembali melalui beberapa tahap pengolahan dan sistem sirkular memungkinkan untuk diaplikasikan dalam industri tekstil meskipun dalam bentuk dan teknologi yang sederhana.
PERANCANGAN DESAIN CELANA ADAPTIF UNTUK LANSIA PEREMPUAN BERBASIS KEBUTUHAN FISIOLOGIS Pramesvari, Ursae; Kahdar, Kahfiati
Ars: Jurnal Seni Rupa dan Desain Vol 28, No 1 (2025): Januari-April 2025
Publisher : Faculty of Visual Arts and Design, Institut Seni Indonesia Yogyakarta, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.24821/ars.v28i1.15105

Abstract

Populasi lanjut usia (lansia) terus meningkat yang berkaitan langsung dengan masalah kesehatan, seperti keterbatasan fisik dan meningkatnya risiko cedera. Salah satu aktivitas yang menjadi tantangan bagi lansia adalah berpakaian. Celana sebagai salah satu jenis pakaian yang umum dikenakan, dapat menimbulkan ketidaknyamanan dan meningkatkan risiko jatuh pada lansia akibat penurunan fungsi motorik dan keseimbangan. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengembangkan desain celana adaptif berdasarkan perubahan fisiologis lansia. Penelitian ini menggunakan metode kualitatif dengan pendekatan analisis terhadap sampel celana adaptif yang tersedia di pasar daring, serta kajian literatur mengenai kebutuhan fisiologis lansia yang berimplikasi terhadap desain celana. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa masih terdapat ruang inovasi yang dapat dilakukan terhadap desain celana adaptif existing, dengan mempertimbangkan kebutuhan fisik lansia serta meningkatkan aspek keamanan dalam penggunaannya. Fitur desain yang direkomendasikan dari penelitian ini antara lain, kenyamanan ekstra di beberapa bagian tubuh sensitif, desain ujung celana yang aman, dan sistem penggunaan yang memfasilitasi berbagai kondisi fisik lansia.Kata kunci: lansia; celana adaptif; kebutuhan fisiologis; desain pakaian---Development of Adaptive Pants Design for Elderly Women Based on Physiological Needs. The elderly population continues to increase, and is directly related to many health issues, such as physical limitations and increased risk of injuries. One of the challenges faced by the elderly is dressing activity. Pants, as one of the clothing items that is commonly worn, can cause discomfort and increase the risk of falls in the elderly due to declining motor function and balance. This study aims to develop an adaptive pants design based on the physiological changes of the elderly. A qualitative method was used with an analytical approach to examine existing adaptive pants available in the online market, as well as a literature review on the physiological needs of the elderly that have implications for pants design. The finding indicates that there is still a chance for innovation to be done on the existing adaptive pants designs by considering the physical needs of the elderly and enhancing the safety aspects. The design feature recommendations from this study include extra comfort in some sensitive body areas, a safer pants hem design, and an adaptive fastening and usage system that facilitates various physical conditions of the elderly.Keywords: elderly; adaptive pants; physiological needs; fashion design
Co-Authors Agus Sachari Arliesa, Yulvi Bhaskoro Wira Dana Waskita Dendi Anugrah Alrashid Dennisa Syafdini Fauzi, Irfandhani irene angelina Mohammad Rizki Herry Putra Muthi?ah, Waridah Nidiya Kusmaya Pramesvari, Ursae puspitasari, feny Resinta Nuraida Slamet Riyadi Teuku Muhammad Mirza Arief Yasraf Amir Piliang