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All Journal Jurnal Media Akademik (JMA) Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Firlina Liovita
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Religion Agriculture, Biological Sciences & Forestry Humanities Chemistry Economics, Econometrics & Finance Education Industrial & Manufacturing Engineering Languange, Linguistic, Communication & Media Law, Crime, Criminology & Criminal Justice Medicine & Pharmacology Social Sciences Other

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REVIEW: PERBANDINGAN EFEKTIVITAS RETINOL DAN BAKUCHIOL TERHADAP SINTESIS KOLAGEN DAN REGENERASI KULIT PADA PROSES PENUAAN Firlina Liovita; Mesyandha Edyuli; Keisya Yumna Salsabila; Saffanah Dhiya; Elianasari
Jurnal Media Akademik (JMA) Vol. 3 No. 12 (2025): JURNAL MEDIA AKADEMIK Edisi Desember
Publisher : PT. Media Akademik Publisher

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.62281/v0s19g51

Abstract

Penuaan kulit merupakan proses biologis progresif yang ditandai dengan penurunan elastisitas, menurunnya sintesis kolagen, dan melemahnya kemampuan regenerasi sel kulit. Retinol telah lama digunakan sebagai Gold Standar dalam terapi topikal anti-penuaan karena kemampuannya merangsang proliferasi sel dan meningkatkan pembentukan kolagen. Namun, retinol sering menimbulkan efek samping seperti iritasi, kemerahan, serta sensitivitas terhadap cahaya, sehingga penggunaannya terbatas pada jenis kulit tertentu. Sebagai alternatif, bakuchiol yang merupakan senyawa meroterpen fenolik dari tumbuhan Psoralea corylifolia, menawarkan efektivitas anti-penuaan yang serupa dengan retinol, tetapi dengan tolerabilitas yang lebih baik dan stabilitas yang lebih tinggi terhadap paparan cahaya. Review ini menganalisis 15 artikel ilmiah terbitan 2015–2025 untuk membandingkan efektivitas kedua bahan tersebut dalam merangsang sintesis kolagen dan regenerasi kulit. Hasil kajian menunjukkan bahwa retinol unggul dalam stimulasi biologis secara langsung melalui aktivasi reseptor retinoid, sementara bakuchiol memberikan efek yang stabil dan minim iritasi melalui mekanisme antioksidan dan antiinflamasi. Keduanya terbukti meningkatkan elastisitas  kulit, namun bakuchiol tetap menjadi pilihan yang lebih aman untuk kulit sensitif dan penggunaan dalam jangka panjang.
Comparison of Extraction Methods for Green Betel Leaf (Piper betle L.) Based on Stock Solution Concentration Herayati Herayati; Amalia Lathifah Widyadari; Deviana Safitri; Firlina Liovita
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 4 No. 1 (2026): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v4i1.2976

Abstract

Green betel leaf (Piper betle L.) is a medicinal plant widely recognized for its bioactive compounds, including flavonoids, alkaloids, tannins, saponins, and essential oils, which exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory activities. The extraction method plays a crucial role in determining the efficiency of bioactive compound recovery from plant materials. This study aimed to compare several extraction methods for green betel leaf based on the concentration of the resulting stock solution as an indicator of extraction efficiency. Fresh green betel leaves were processed into dried simplicia and extracted using five different methods: maceration, partition and fractionation, digestion, ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE), and Soxhlet extraction. Methanol, n-hexane, and distilled water were used as extraction solvents according to the characteristics of each method. The concentration of each stock solution was calculated from the dry extract residue obtained after solvent evaporation. The results showed that UAE produced the highest stock solution concentration (2.4% w/v), followed by Soxhlet extraction (0.8% w/v), digestion (0.04% w/v), maceration (0.01% w/v), and partition and fractionation (0.0003% w/v). The superior performance of UAE was attributed to acoustic cavitation, which enhanced mass transfer while minimizing thermal degradation of heat-sensitive bioactive compounds. These findings demonstrate that UAE is the most effective extraction technique among the evaluated methods for obtaining bioactive compounds from green betel leaves and has considerable potential for developing natural cosmetic ingredients.
Co-Authors Amalia Lathifah Widyadari Deviana Safitri Elianasari Herayati Herayati Keisya Yumna Salsabila Mesyandha Edyuli Saffanah Dhiya