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All Journal Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Herayati Herayati
Department of Cosmetic Engineering Itera
Agriculture, Biological Sciences & Forestry Chemistry Economics, Econometrics & Finance Industrial & Manufacturing Engineering Medicine & Pharmacology

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Natural-Based Cosmetics: Trends, Challenges, and Scientific Innovations Herayati Herayati; Elianasari Elianasari
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 2 No. 2 (2024): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v2i2.1992

Abstract

The increasing demand for natural-based cosmetics has reshaped the beauty industry, driven by consumers seeking sustainable, eco-friendly, and ethically sourced products. This review explores the current trends, formulation challenges, and scientific innovations in the development of natural-based cosmetics. Key natural ingredients, such as plant extracts, oils, and waxes, are discussed in terms of their benefits, limitations, and formulation complexities. The article also addresses significant hurdles, including stability issues, the need for natural preservation systems, and consumer expectations for product efficacy and sensory experience. Advances in green chemistry, biotechnology, and encapsulation technologies are highlighted as critical drivers for overcoming these challenges. Innovations such as plant stem cells, microbial fermentation, and nanoemulsions have enhanced the performance and stability of natural actives. Looking ahead, the future of natural-based cosmetics lies in further integration of green biotechnologies to create more effective and sustainable bioactive ingredients. By embracing these innovations, the beauty industry is poised to meet consumer demands for high-performance products that are not only natural but also sustainable and ethically transparent.
THE POTENTIAL OF FRAGRANT PANDAN LEAVES AS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS: PHYTOCHEMICAL ANALYSIS Siwi Nurbaiti; Sinta Bella Triyanti; Herayati Herayati
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 3 No. 1 (2025): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v3i1.2277

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate the phytochemical composition of Pandanus amaryllifolius (fragrant pandan) leaf extract as a preliminary assessment of its potential application in herbal cosmetic formulations. The extraction was performed using the maceration method with 95% ethanol as the solvent. Qualitative phytochemical screening was conducted to identify major classes of secondary metabolites. The results confirmed the presence of alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, polyphenols, and saponins, while steroids and triterpenoids were not detected. Each identified compound group is known to contribute important biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial effects, which are desirable in topical skincare products. These findings provide foundational evidence that P. amaryllifolius leaves are a promising natural source of multifunctional bioactive compounds for future cosmeceutical development.
THE OPTIMALIZATION OF EXTRACTION METHOD OF AVOCADO LEAVES Herayati Herayati; Syakirah Fitri Nadiyah
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 3 No. 2 (2025): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v3i2.2489

Abstract

This study aims to determine the most effective extraction method to obtain bioactive compounds from avocado (Persea americana Mill.) leaves, which are known for their antioxidant and antibacterial activities. Four extraction methods were evaluated—maceration, digestion, Soxhlet extraction, and ultrasonic extraction—using methanol and water as solvents. Evaluation was based on yield and stock solution concentration. Results showed that ultrasonic extraction produced the highest yield with a stock concentration of 2.5% m/v, indicating superior extraction efficiency compared to the other methods. Maceration and Soxhlet extraction produced moderate values, while digestion produced the lowest stock solution concentration (0.9%). These findings indicate that ultrasonic extraction is a rapid and efficient technique for extracting bioactive compounds from natural materials, making it highly relevant for application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical product development.
Comparison of Extraction Methods for Green Betel Leaf (Piper betle L.) Based on Stock Solution Concentration Herayati Herayati; Amalia Lathifah Widyadari; Deviana Safitri; Firlina Liovita
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 4 No. 1 (2026): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v4i1.2976

Abstract

Green betel leaf (Piper betle L.) is a medicinal plant widely recognized for its bioactive compounds, including flavonoids, alkaloids, tannins, saponins, and essential oils, which exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory activities. The extraction method plays a crucial role in determining the efficiency of bioactive compound recovery from plant materials. This study aimed to compare several extraction methods for green betel leaf based on the concentration of the resulting stock solution as an indicator of extraction efficiency. Fresh green betel leaves were processed into dried simplicia and extracted using five different methods: maceration, partition and fractionation, digestion, ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE), and Soxhlet extraction. Methanol, n-hexane, and distilled water were used as extraction solvents according to the characteristics of each method. The concentration of each stock solution was calculated from the dry extract residue obtained after solvent evaporation. The results showed that UAE produced the highest stock solution concentration (2.4% w/v), followed by Soxhlet extraction (0.8% w/v), digestion (0.04% w/v), maceration (0.01% w/v), and partition and fractionation (0.0003% w/v). The superior performance of UAE was attributed to acoustic cavitation, which enhanced mass transfer while minimizing thermal degradation of heat-sensitive bioactive compounds. These findings demonstrate that UAE is the most effective extraction technique among the evaluated methods for obtaining bioactive compounds from green betel leaves and has considerable potential for developing natural cosmetic ingredients.
Formulation and Evaluation of a Guava Leaf (Psidium guajava L.) Extract-Based Soap Bar as a Cleanser Herayati Herayati; Adelia Oktaviana
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 4 No. 1 (2026): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v4i1.3063

Abstract

The cosmetic industry is rapidly developing, with a focus on safer and environmentally friendly formulations. Soap bars, which are widely used as skin-cleansing products, are increasingly being innovatively formulated using natural ingredients that provide additional benefits for the skin. Guava leaves (Psidium guajava L.), which contain flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic compounds, exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties, making them promising ingredients for cosmetic formulations. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate a guava leaf extract-based soap bar as a skin cleanser with antioxidant properties. An experimental method was employed to develop soap bars containing guava leaf extract through the saponification of virgin coconut oil (VCO), stearic acid, glycerin, and sodium hydroxide (NaOH), combined with guava leaf extract. The evaluations included physical appearance, pH, foam stability, and antioxidant activity using the DPPH assay. The resulting soap bars exhibited stable physical characteristics, an appropriate pH range (6–7), good foam stability, and significant antioxidant activity, with a DPPH inhibition percentage exceeding 70%. These findings suggest that guava leaf extract-based soap bars not only function effectively as cleansers but also provide additional protection against oxidative stress, supporting their potential as natural and functional skincare products.
Co-Authors Adelia Oktaviana Amalia Lathifah Widyadari Deviana Safitri Elianasari Elianasari Firlina Liovita Sinta Bella Triyanti Siwi Nurbaiti Syakirah Fitri Nadiyah