Munandar, Alan
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Fashion sebagai media komunikasi visual: Representasi budaya songket dan jumputan Palembang di Bahrain Munandar, Alan; Adila, Nanda Putri; Permatasari, Rachel Indah
Jurnal Desain Vol 13 No 3 (2026): Jurnal Desain
Publisher : Universitas Indraprasta PGRI

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.30998/jd.v13i3.2853

Abstract

Penelitian ini mengkaji representasi visual budaya tekstil tradisional Palembang, songket dan kain jumputan sebagai media komunikasi antarbudaya dalam acara "High Tea Fashion Show & Bazaar" yang diselenggarakan di Manama, Bahrain, pada 7 Desember 2025. Penelitian ini merespons fenomena bagaimana artefak tradisional Sumatra Selatan berfungsi sebagai simbol komunikatif non-verbal ketika ditampilkan kepada audiens Timur Tengah dalam kerangka diplomatik. Pendekatan studi kasus kualitatif digunakan melalui observasi partisipatif terhadap acara fashion show di The Diplomat Radisson Blu Hotel, analisis semiotika visual terhadap desain tekstil yang ditampilkan, serta analisis dokumen dari KBRI Manama dan Bahrain–Indonesia Business and Friendship Society (BIBFS). Data dianalisis menggunakan kerangka semiotika dua tataran Roland Barthes. Temuan kunci menunjukkan bahwa adaptasi strategis Songket dan Jumputan ke dalam siluet modest fashion berfungsi sebagai "penerjemahan budaya" yang berhasil menjembatani nilai-nilai estetika dan sosio-religius antara Indonesia dan Bahrain. Penelitian ini terbatas pada satu peristiwa tunggal dan merekomendasikan kajian longitudinal yang lebih luas. Kebaruan penelitian ini terletak pada fokus spesifik pada tekstil Sumatra Selatan, topik yang kurang terwakili dalam literatur komunikasi antarbudaya, sebagai instrumen diplomasi budaya di kawasan Teluk.
Communicating Gender in Javanese Wayang Wong: A Semiotic and Historical Analysis of Cross-Gender Performance Munandar, Alan; Choiron, Nabhan Fuad
Metacommunication: Journal of Communication Studies Vol 11, No 1 (2026): MetaCommunication: Journal of Communication Studies
Publisher : Universitas Lambung Mangkurat

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.20527/mc.v11i1.25422

Abstract

This article examines how gender is constructed, communicated, and historically transformed in Javanese wayang wong through a network of simultaneous semiotic channels. The communication phenomenon at the center of the study is the persistence of cross-gender performance in a traditional theatrical form whose meanings are shaped not only by bodily signs, costume, vocality, and spatial arrangement, but also by Javanese cosmology and changing political contexts. Using a qualitative design based on documentary research and textual analysis, the study draws on ethnographic studies, historical accounts, performance documentation, and heritage records related to wayang wong in Central Java. The analysis combines theatre semiotics, gender performativity theory, and postcolonial historical interpretation, with data organized through movement, costume, vocal, spatial, and contextual sign systems. The findings show that gender in wayang wong is communicated as an embodied cultural language rather than a fixed biological category, and that the alus/kasar cosmological framework is more decisive than the female/male binary in organizing meaning. Practically, the study supports more contextual interpretation, preservation, and performance pedagogy in traditional arts. Its limitation lies in the reliance on documentary rather than field-based audience data, while its originality lies in positioning cross-gender performance as a historically dynamic communication system grounded in local cosmology rather than merely as theatrical role reversal.