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BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa
Published by Universitas Negeri Surabaya
ISSN : 27472574     EISSN : 27472574.     DOI : https://doi.org/10.26740/baju
Core Subject : Humanities, Social,
Humanities Social Sciences
BAJU mempublikasikan artikel-artikel dari mahasiswa, dosen, guru, para peneliti dan profesional yang berisi hasil penelitian, penciptaan, gagasan pemikiran, dan kreasi atau inovasi lain dibidang desain mode dan tekstil, baik dalam bahasa Indonesia maupun bahasa Inggris. Diterbitkan setahun empat kali, memberikan kesempatan artikel anda untuk segera publish. BAJU menyediakan forum ilmiah untuk topik penciptaan atau praktik busana maupun tekstil. BAJU mendorong penelitian interdisipliner dan pengembangan komunitas akademik yang akan berbagi teori, teknologi, dan teknik yang baru di industri fashion dan tekstil, termasuk: - inovasi dalam desain dan praktik mode - keberlanjutan dan etika dalam industri mode - teknologi mikro dalam konteks fashion dan tekstil - smart and digital fashion dan tekstil - konsumsi dan produksi fashion - materials, design, concepts and process Kontribusi yang sesuai untuk jurnal ini terbagi dalam kategori berikut: - Research papers menyajikan temuan baru yang penting - Technical papers yang menjelaskan perkembangan atau inovasi baru - Academic discussion papers yang membahas tren dan prediksi jangka menengah hingga panjang.
Arjuna Subject : Seni dan Humaniora - Seni dan Humaniora (Lain-Lain)
Articles 122 Documents
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AURUM VITAE: PERANCANGAN KOLEKSI READY-TO-WEAR DELUXE BERNARASI ‘POSITIVE AGING’ Verena Fedora Goenawan; Andi Hamzah; Wenny Natalia
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 6 No 2 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

AURUM VITAE is a women’s ready-to-wear deluxe fashion collection, designed based on the theme of the positive side of aging. In a modern society that often views aging negatively, this collection serves as a narrative counterpoint through an elegant and meaningful design approach. The garments are crafted to be timeless, transcending trends. Aging is perceived as the growth of experience, maturity, and a source of deeper meaning in life. The collection features A-line and I-line silhouettes, symbolizing growth and serenity. A neutral color palette — including white, ivory, beige, grey, and taupe — reinforces a sense of calm, elegance, and stability. Fabric manipulation techniques such as pleating, quilting, and broken needle stitching are employed to visually represent the philosophical values of aging, such as accumulated experience. This collection targets women aged 40–50 living in major Indonesian cities, such as Jakarta, who value high-quality clothing with meaningful design and timeless elegance.
Pemanfaatan Pewarna Alami dari Kulit Kayu Tingi dengan Teknik Ecoprint pada Kain Katun Atina Khoiron Nisa; Nayla Fikriatun Nafi’ah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 6 No 2 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

The bark of the tingi tree (Ceriops tagal), a mangrove species commonly found in coastal regions, serves as a natural source of brown pigment capable of imparting appealing coloration to textiles. However, the utilization of tingi bark as a natural dye through ecoprint techniques remains relatively underexplored. This study employed an experimental approach comprising several stages: extraction, premordanting, dyeing, ecoprinting, and fixation. The leaf-based ecoprint process revealed that teak leaves produced a reddish-purple hue, while guava, castor, cassava, and fern leaves yielded lighter, whitish tones. The final outcomes demonstrate that fabrics dyed with tingi bark using ecoprint methods. There was a loss of fabric mass during washing with 1% detergent, indicating that the dye and mordant had not fully adhered to the fabric.
Eksplorasi Transformasi Simbolik Gajah Oling Dalam Penciptaan Busana Ready to Wear Berbasis Budaya Banyuwangi Rizka Sarah Heydarina Fathima Ahsan; Sri Eko Puji Rahayu; Asriana Kibtiyah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 6 No 2 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

The purpose of the research is to create a ready-to-wear fashion design that integrates Banyuwangi cultural values through the transformation of the Oling Elephant Batik motif and the anatomical character of the elephant into a contemporary fashion silhouette. The methods used with the stages of research on the creation of works include pre-design, design, realization, and presentation. In the pre-design stage, an exploration of the study of the philosophy of the Elephant Oling, analysis of elephant anatomy as a source of shape, and the selection of materials and textile techniques. The planning stage produces alternative sketches and is created at the embodiment stage covering patterns, material cuts, sewing and finishing. The results of the study show that the integration of cultural values, shape transformation and textile manipulation can produce ready-to-wear clothing that is aesthetic, functional and has narrative power. This research affirms the potential of contemporary fashion as a medium of cultural revitalization and offers a new model of approach in symbolic-based design. Further research is recommended to examine user responses and the potential for collection development at a production scale.
A Comparative Study of Product-Centric and Experience-Centric Value Creation in Indonesian Fashion Retail Dian Prianka
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 6 No 2 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

This study examines how Indonesian fashion retailers strategically respond to the rising demand for physical, shareable experiences among digitally-native Generation Z and Millennial consumers. It aims to compare two distinct strategic approaches to value creation: “product-centricity” and “experience-centricity”; and to derive practical insights for navigating the contemporary experience economy. This study employs a qualitative comparative case study approach to investigate the distinct mechanisms of value creation. Through a comparative case study of the product-centric brand Colorbox and the experience-centric brand Paddy Playstore, this research analyzes their divergent value creation mechanisms using Aaker’s Brand Identity and Pine & Gilmore’s Experience Economy frameworks. Findings show Colorbox leverages its physical store primarily to support transactions of affordable apparel. In contrast, Paddy Playstore’s core offering is an immersive DIY experience, fostering value through co-creation and emotional engagement. The study concludes that both models are strategically viable, representing complementary strategic paths for retailers: layering experiential elements onto a product foundation or meticulously curating the core experience as the product itself.
DARI LINI KE LINGKAR: EKSPLORASI CIRCULAR FASHION DALAM DESAIN MERCHANDISE SEBAGAI STRATEGI GREEN BRANDING UNIVERSITAS Silmy Fadhilah; Irma Russanti; Fadlilah Indira Sari; Yuhri Inang Prihatina
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 7 No 1 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

Circular fashion is a concept that emphasizes sustainable fashion by utilizing waster materials to create new higher value product through upcycling. This upcycling principle has a positive impact on the environment by reducing waste and enhancing ther green branding of D4 Tata Busana study program. This study aims to evaluate the implementation of circular fashion in a merchandise prototype that represents the identity of the D4 Tata Busana study program. The ADDIE model, comprising Analysis, Design, Development, Implementation, and Evaluation, was employed to assess how circular fashion designs strengthen the institution's identity. The development object consists of fashion miniature merchandise made from patchwork fabric waste generated through Teaching Factory (Tefa) practical activities. This study developed four merchandise prototypes for the D4 Fashion Design Study Program, with one prototype selected, earning a score of 37.5%. The evaluation involved 56 respondents and focused on two criteria: (1) originality and novelty, and (2) production needs feasibility. The evaluation results suggest that the chosen merchandise design is suitable for production, as 66% of respondents see the product as innovative. This study demonstrates the potential to develop an income-generating product with efficient production practices costs.
PENGEMBANGAN PACKAGING FASHION SEBAGAI IDENTITAS VISUAL FASDEVA: STUDI PENCIPTAAN KEMASAN PRODUK FASHION BERBASIS ELEMEN MOTIF BATIK KONTEMPORER Fadlilah Indira Sari; Silmy Ni’mah Fadhilah; Irma Russanti
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 7 No 1 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

This design creation study seeks to develop fashion packaging that incorporates contemporary batik motifs as a visual identity strategy to enhance the appeal and professionalism of TEFA products. Employing a practice-led design research approach, the study comprised a sequence of activities including needs analysis, motif exploration, alternative design development, prototype production, and preference testing with a sample of 59 respondents. The results demonstrate that the integration of contemporary batik motifs across three packaging media box, totebag, and hangtag significantly reinforces brand visual identity and elevates product aesthetic value. Respondents favored the first box design (54.2%) and the first totebag design (61%), indicating a predominant preference for minimalist compositions featuring stylized batik elements. The findings further reveal that fashion packaging functions not merely as a marker of perceived product quality but also as a medium for cultural continuity through the reinterpretation of batik within a modern visual framework. This study concludes that contemporary batik-based fashion packaging effectively strengthens the visual identity of FASDEVA and enhances the marketability of TEFA fashion products. The research contributes to the discourse on culturally embedded packaging design and underscores its relevance for fashion vocational education and the broader creative industries.
Eksperimen Teknik Tile Trapping pada Perca Brokat Ni Luh Nila Febrianti; I Nyoman Artayasa; Gede Pasek Putra Adnyana Yasa
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 7 No 1 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

The increasing amount of brocade and lace scrap waste in the kebaya industry in Bali has become a major environmental problem and an opportunity for sustainable textile material innovation. This study aims to develop textile materials through innovative fabric manipulation techniques with tile trapping techniques and exploration in the use of color combinations, namely analogous, complementary, and monochromatic colors. This study uses a descriptive qualitative approach with an experimental method consisting of three main stages: observation is carried out by identifying the type of brocade, fabric thickness, fabric motif, and size of the brocade scrap. The experiment produced three material prototypes based on the color scheme, then conducted a final evaluation which was carried out visually to assess the appearance aspects of color harmony, motif, texture, neatness of stitching, and material strength. The results show that the tile trapping technique is able to combine brocade scraps with various sizes and fabric motifs into a new textile material that is stable and functional. The analogous color scheme produces a harmonious impression, the complementary color scheme provides a strong visual contrast, while the monochromatic color scheme creates a unified and soft impression. This research contributes to the development of sustainable textile material innovation and supports environmentally friendly fashion practices based on Bali's local potential.
Penciptaan Busana Avant-Garde dengan Sumber Ide Dewi Artemis Mey Surya Mada; Urip Wahyuningsih
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 7 No 2 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

This study aims to explore the application of manipulating fabric ruffles in avant-garde fashion using Artemis from Greek mythology as the source of inspiration. Artemis was selected due to her representation of strength, independence, and elegance, which aligns with the fundamental principles of avant-garde design. The research employs the Double Diamond Model, consisting of the discover, define, develop, and deliver stages. The design process begins with an exploration of the symbolism and character of Artemis, followed by the development of design concepts through moodboards, silhouette determination, material exploration, and the application of ruffles as the main design element. The final garment is then evaluated by three experts in fashion design. The results indicate that the application of manipulating fabric ruffles successfully creates dynamic volume, texture, and movement, while effectively representing the visual and conceptual character of Artemis. Therefore, this technique is considered effective and appropriate for avant-garde fashion as a medium of innovative and meaningful artistic expression.
Transformasi Ornamen Palais Garnier dengan Teknik Laser Cut dan Iluminasi LED pada Busana Avant-Garde Futuristik Faldzah Syadwina Putri Prasetya; Irma Russanti
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 7 No 2 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v7n2.p85-102

Abstract

The development of avant-garde fashion that integrates art, architecture, and technology encourages the exploration of transforming historical architectural ornaments into futuristic, conceptual, and experimental fashion works. This study aims to examine the design process and final outcome of an avant-garde futuristic garment through the transformation of Palais Garnier architectural ornaments using laser cut techniques and LED illumination. This research employs a quantitative descriptive approach with the Double Diamond design method, consisting of the discover, define, develop, and deliver stages. Data were collected through expert evaluations using a Likert-scale questionnaire covering 13 assessment indicators and analyzed using descriptive statistics. The results indicate that the design process was carried out systematically and achieved a very good level in accordance with the Double Diamond stages. Furthermore, the overall quality of the final garment obtained an average score of 3.28 out of a maximum scale of 4. The findings demonstrate that the transformation of Palais Garnier ornaments through laser cut techniques and integrated LED illumination effectively enhances the futuristic, artistic, and theatrical character of avant-garde fashion.
INTERPRETASI ZELLIGE BAHIA PALACE MELALUI TEKNIK ANYAMAN PADA BUSANA AVANT-GARDE Laura Intan Prasyono; Urip Wahyuningsih
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 7 No 1 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

The objectives of this study are to (1) describe the process of applying weaving techniques inspired by Zellige Bahia Palace to avant-garde fashion, and (2) determine the results of weaving techniques inspired by Zellige Bahia Palace in avant-garde fashion. Zellige Bahia Palace was chosen as the source of inspiration because it has geometric shapes and repetitive patterns typical of Morocco that are relevant to explore through weaving techniques. The type of research used is quantitative descriptive with Double Diamond method, which consists of four stages: Discover, which collects information about Zellige Bahia Palace and weaving techniques; Define, which formulates exploration in a moodboard; Develop, which designs five concept and then selects one design, explores materials, and creates prototype; Deliver, which assesses the results of avant-garde clothing by three fashion experts through an observation sheet. The results show the application of Zellige Bahia Palace elements in avant-garde fashion design is considered excellent, as demonstrated by the accuracy of translating geometric motifs into woven structures. The quality of the weaving technique received an excellent rating for its neatness, precision, and proportionality. However, the finished garments still need further development so that their experimental and innovative avant-garde character can be displayed more strongly.

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