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BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa
Published by Universitas Negeri Surabaya
ISSN : 27472574     EISSN : 27472574.     DOI : https://doi.org/10.26740/baju
Core Subject : Humanities, Social,
Humanities Social Sciences
BAJU mempublikasikan artikel-artikel dari mahasiswa, dosen, guru, para peneliti dan profesional yang berisi hasil penelitian, penciptaan, gagasan pemikiran, dan kreasi atau inovasi lain dibidang desain mode dan tekstil, baik dalam bahasa Indonesia maupun bahasa Inggris. Diterbitkan setahun empat kali, memberikan kesempatan artikel anda untuk segera publish. BAJU menyediakan forum ilmiah untuk topik penciptaan atau praktik busana maupun tekstil. BAJU mendorong penelitian interdisipliner dan pengembangan komunitas akademik yang akan berbagi teori, teknologi, dan teknik yang baru di industri fashion dan tekstil, termasuk: - inovasi dalam desain dan praktik mode - keberlanjutan dan etika dalam industri mode - teknologi mikro dalam konteks fashion dan tekstil - smart and digital fashion dan tekstil - konsumsi dan produksi fashion - materials, design, concepts and process Kontribusi yang sesuai untuk jurnal ini terbagi dalam kategori berikut: - Research papers menyajikan temuan baru yang penting - Technical papers yang menjelaskan perkembangan atau inovasi baru - Academic discussion papers yang membahas tren dan prediksi jangka menengah hingga panjang.
Arjuna Subject : Seni dan Humaniora - Seni dan Humaniora (Lain-Lain)
Articles 109 Documents
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SONGKET PALEMBANG dan BUNGA HELLBORE SEBAGAI SUMBER IDE PENCIPTAAN BUSANA MUSLIM Rachmawardani, Rizmaningrum; Suhartini, Ratna
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n2.p182-188

Abstract

Hellebore flowers in Indonesian are also called helleborus flowers, a type of flowering plant from the genus Helleborus which is known for its beautiful flowers and often blooms in winter or early spring. The purpose of this study was to determine the results of the application of Palembang songket cloth and Hellebore flowers to Muslim clothing. This study uses a double diamond model research methodology consisting of four stages, namely discovery, definition, development, and application. The main materials used are Palembang songket cloth, duchess cloth, and wool. The garment making process consists of making patterns and adding fabrics that can be manipulated to women's and men's clothing. The silhouette of this dress is an A-line silhouette with a loose blouse and accessories. Palembang songket applied to the blazer gives a unique and ethnic impression. The results of this study apply manipulating tucking to the clothing and accessories to give a unique impression so that the appearance looks different.
Visualisasi Kehilangan Ibu Berdasarkan Lagu “Fourth Of July” (Oleh Sufjan Stevens) pada Koleksi Fashion Aninidta, Alifia Putri
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 1 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n1.p123-129

Abstract

In a family, the figure of the mother generally plays a very large role. Mothers are the most influential figures in shaping children's psychology, personality and morals. The statement sparked a question. "What will happen if someone as important as 'mother' dies?" This research was made to produce visualizations based on the interpretation of song lyrics that raise the theme. To answer this question, this research was carried out by collecting secondary data related to the lyrics of a song. The song "Fourth of July" written and sung by Sufjan Stevens was raised as the theme of this research because it has lyrics that tell the moment of separation between mother and child. This research uses a creation method consisting of exploration, design and embodiment, with reference to the lyrics of the song "Fourth of July". The visualization media used is in the form of making a fashion collection. In this case, the fashion collection with the theme of the experience of a child who was abandoned by his mother as written in the lyrics of the song "Fourth of July" by Sufjan Stevens does not yet exist. This study adapts the interpretation of the song "Fourth of July" as a form of reference from the experience of losing the mother figure into a visual form in the form of a fashion collection consisting of two men's clothes and two women's clothes which each implies feelings of grief and sincerity of the mother's departure.
Penciptaan Busana Ready to Wear dengan Motif Gendang Beleq dan Rumah Bale Yunika, Anif Fatma; Kusumawardani, Hapsari; Aini, Nurul; Nafiah, Annisau
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n2.p241-251

Abstract

Gendang Beleq and Bale Lumbung House are traditional arts and traditional houses that characterise the Sasak Lombok tribe. Gendang Beleq and Bale Lumbung House are used as a source of ideas and realised as digital printing motifs with the intention of preserving and introducing traditional arts and culture in Indonesia. The research results stated: (1) The concept of ready to wear fashion creation combines elements of nature and culture, namely the beauty of Kuta Beach Lombok, the traditional art of Gendang Beleq and the traditional house of the Sasak tribe, namely the Bale Lumbung House. (2) The process of creating the fashion work refers to Hendriyana's Practice-led Research method which consists of four stages, namely Pre-design, Design, Realisation and Presentation of Work. (3) The final result of the work consists of 2 fashion looks that are classified as ready to wear clothing with a loose cut. The first work consists of 5 items, namely outer printing top, plain white culottes made from duchess satin, skirt made from navy duchess satin with additional wide rope ties around the waist with a width of 4 cm, tie printing bodice and white knit inner. The second look consists of 5 items, namely outer printing, printed culottes, obi belt with circular strap with seashell motif printing, printed ikat skirt and white inner knit.
TEKNIK IRON BLANKET PADA ECOPRINT MENGGUNAKAN PEWARNA ALAM Tsani, Romadhona
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 1 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n1.p110-116

Abstract

ABSTRACT Ecoprint is a fabric printing technique by transferring colors and plant shapes or patterns onto textiles. One technique for making ecoprints is an iron blanket, which is a technique for making ecoprints by stacking or covering the ecoprint media with cloth that has been given natural dye first. The iron blanket technique has become popular among artists and craftsmen, because it produces unique and environmentally friendly fabric. The use of organic materials from nature also supports the manufacture of sustainable textiles, namely the manufacture of textiles that minimize negative impacts on the environment. One of the important elements in printing textiles with natural colors is plants that have dyes in them. Natural dyes do not produce waste that can harm the surrounding environment, because the nature of natural dyes is non-toxic and easily decomposed. In this study, natural dyes were made using terminalia cattapa/ketapang leaves, ricinus communis linn leaves and psidium guajava leaves. This plant is easy to find, but is usually only used as a shrub or as an ornamental plant. These three plants produce a grayish green color with alum fixator, and produce a grayish brown color with alum fixator.
Penerapan Estetika Kebaya Kutubaru dengan Style Casual pada Remaja Meliawati, Annissa; Sesnawati, Yeni; Zahra, Lutfia
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n2.p173-181

Abstract

This research aims to gather aesthetic assessment data on five modified Kutubaru kebayas with casual style, measured using aspects of design form, weight, and presentation based on the aesthetic theory by A.A.M Djelantik. The research method employed is descriptive quantitative with a pre-experimental design approach, specifically a one-shot case study. The instrument used was a questionnaire consisting of 20 statements rated on a scale, administered to 5 expert panelists in the field.The evaluation data on modified Kutubaru kebayas based on the three aspects were categorized as excellent, with the presentation aspect receiving the highest score 88,33 and the form aspect the lowest score with 82,4. Following closely was the weight aspect, also categorized as excellent with score 84,5, consistent with Djelantik's aesthetic theory.The aesthetic assessment data indicates that the form, weight, and presentation aspects of Kutubaru kebayas in casual style received excellent ratings. This suggests that the application of aesthetic form, weight, and presentation in modified Kutubaru kebayas with casual style.
Perancangan Vest Dengan Teknik Patchwork Menggunakan Kain Perca Motif Batik Tanah Liek: Perancangan Vest dengan Teknik Patchwork Menggunakan Kain Perca Motif Batik Tanah Liek Muliandra, Aristi; Sesnawati, Yeni; Wesnina, Wesnina
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n2.p150-159

Abstract

This research aims to determine the assessment of vest products using patchwork techniques using Tanah Liek batik patterns. This research uses an experimental research method of the Pre-Experimental Design type with a one-shot case study design. The data obtained used a mixed questionnaire research instrument, and the scale used was the Rating Scale with a value range between 1-5 (Very Poor – Very Good). The results of the research assessment of vest products using patchwork techniques with Tanah Liek batik pattern based on the product quality aspect were in the good category, then the assessment based on design elements also got the good category, and finally the assessment based on the design principle aspect was also in the good category so that It can be concluded that in the three assessment aspects used to evaluate vest products with patchwork techniques with Tanah Liek batik patterns, they are all in the good category. Vest design with patchwork technique with Tanah Liek batik pattern, design 1 gets the highest score which is in the very good category, while the design with the lowest score is obtained by design 3 which is in the good category.
Teknik Shibori Kanoko pada Hobo Bag Berbahan Denim dengan Proses Bleaching Sapitri, Lutfia Ayu; Suryawati, Suryawati; Sesnawati, Yeni
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 1 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n1.p141-149

Abstract

The purpose of this research is to evaluate the assessment of denim hobo bags utilizing the shibori kanoko technique with a bleaching process, based on product quality aspects using indicators of performance, aesthetics, features, and style. The research method employed is experimental, specifically the Pre-Experimental Design in the form of a One Shot Case Study with a quantitative approach. A questionnaire consisting of 23 statements was administered to five panelists. The data analysis technique used is descriptive statistical analysis.The results of the research indicate that the assessment of denim hobo bags using the shibori kanoko technique with a bleaching process, based on product quality aspects, resulted in an overall score of 92,2 in the excellent category. The performance indicator received the highest score of 97,3, in the excellent category. The lowest score was obtained by the style indicator, with a score of 89, which still falls within the excellent category. When considering the design, the highest score was achieved by design 5, with a score of 92,8, in the excellent category. The lowest score was obtained by design 2, with a score of 91,5, in the excellent category. These findings demonstrate that the evaluation based on product quality aspects of denim hobo bags using the shibori kanoko technique with a bleaching process is already very good.
Pengembangan Bentuk Kebaya Bangaw dengan Sumber Ide Legenda Batoe Tinagat pada Perancangan Adibusana Anakirin, Nurin Fauhan; Santoso, Ratna Endah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n2.p219-226

Abstract

Foreign cultures that enter Indonesia are slowly eroding the existence of local culture. There is an urgency to preserve and introduce the Tidung Tribe to the community, by developing this traditional kebaya bangaw traditional clothing into a more modern and relevant form to attract the interest of the community today. This design applies the transforming tradition method with 7 stages, namely ATUMICS, with Artefact which is the design object and six basic elements, namely Technique, Utility, Material, Icon, Concept, and Shape to create product innovations or systems that are traditional products so that they can be accepted by modern society while maintaining the cultural values in it. This design produced 9 evening fashion designs, but from the 9 designs, 4 designs were selected to be realized. Based on this design, it can be concluded that the traditional clothing of the Bangaw kebaya can be developed into the design of the costume while maintaining its uniqueness and the source of the idea of the legend of Batoe Tinagat can be used as a source of inspiration in designing the motif of the costume to create an exploration of the more modern traditional clothing of the Tidung tribe through the stages of visual processing, construction, and surface processing.
BUNGA PEONY DAN BORDIR MOTIF TENUN SEBAGAI SUMBER IDE PENCIPTAAN BUSANA PESTA Putri, Talisa Fasya Laksita; Indarti, Indarti
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 1 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n1.p130-140

Abstract

The purpose of this research is to find out the process to the finished result of the application of Peony flower idea source and embroidery weaving motif in the creation of party wear. Peony flowers from Asia and Europe were combined with Western fashion silhouettes and embroidered woven motifs from Indonesia. The research method in this project applies the double diamond model. The process of applying the source idea of Peony flower and embroidered weaving motif to party wear went through several stages. In the first stage, discover, the author took the ITF 2024 & 2025 trend of fusion theme with borderless sub-theme. Define, determine the source of idea of Peony flower and embroidered weaving motif with nude main color through moodboard. In the develop stage, the author did 12 design developments that had been given color and technical drawings digitally. The last stage, deliver, the author realized 1 pair of party wear collection that had received feedback through iteration. The finished result of the application of Peony flower and embroidery motifs in the creation of party wear was right according to the plan, namely women's party wear with bustier cup variations of tulle, mermaid skirt, blooming sleeves, manipulating ruffles gathering gradations and Peony flowers. Men's party fashion in the form of suits, shirts and pants that use embroidered woven motifs on the right side of the suit sleeves and fringe decoration on the front of the suit.
PENCIPTAAN DESAIN KEBAYA BERGAYA FUNKY BERTEMA “ KEBAYA AROUND THE WORLD “ DENGAN INSPIRASI BAR JACKET Kuncoro, Argi Dwi; Arifiana, Deny
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n2.p252-261

Abstract

The aim of this research is, among other things, to describe the process and results of creating a funky style kebaya design with the theme "kebaya around the world" with the inspiration of a bar jacket. The theme “Kebaya Around the World” was chosen to align the creative process in processing the essence of tradition in kebaya and modern funky style. Research includes creation research, which uses the Practice-Ied Research method, which consists of 4 stages which include (1) exploration, (2) design process, (3) embodiment of the work, and (4) dissemination of the work. The results of this research show that the process of creation Funky kebaya design with an around the world kebaya theme, inspired by the bar jacket style includes exploring the source of ideas, creating alternative designs, realizing the work and disseminating the work in the form of presentation via mannequin displays and demonstrated by model  in accordance with the theory of practice-led research in the form of 1 set design and produce ready-to-wear clothing in the form of kebaya, trousers and accessories with funky style, and  the theme of kebaya around the world.

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