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BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa
Published by Universitas Negeri Surabaya
ISSN : 27472574     EISSN : 27472574.     DOI : https://doi.org/10.26740/baju
Core Subject : Humanities, Social,
Humanities Social Sciences
BAJU mempublikasikan artikel-artikel dari mahasiswa, dosen, guru, para peneliti dan profesional yang berisi hasil penelitian, penciptaan, gagasan pemikiran, dan kreasi atau inovasi lain dibidang desain mode dan tekstil, baik dalam bahasa Indonesia maupun bahasa Inggris. Diterbitkan setahun empat kali, memberikan kesempatan artikel anda untuk segera publish. BAJU menyediakan forum ilmiah untuk topik penciptaan atau praktik busana maupun tekstil. BAJU mendorong penelitian interdisipliner dan pengembangan komunitas akademik yang akan berbagi teori, teknologi, dan teknik yang baru di industri fashion dan tekstil, termasuk: - inovasi dalam desain dan praktik mode - keberlanjutan dan etika dalam industri mode - teknologi mikro dalam konteks fashion dan tekstil - smart and digital fashion dan tekstil - konsumsi dan produksi fashion - materials, design, concepts and process Kontribusi yang sesuai untuk jurnal ini terbagi dalam kategori berikut: - Research papers menyajikan temuan baru yang penting - Technical papers yang menjelaskan perkembangan atau inovasi baru - Academic discussion papers yang membahas tren dan prediksi jangka menengah hingga panjang.
Arjuna Subject : Seni dan Humaniora - Seni dan Humaniora (Lain-Lain)
Articles 109 Documents
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BUSANA READY TO WEAR DELUXE MENGGUNAKAN PEWARNAAN ALAM AMPAS KOPI DAN KOMBINASI SLASHING KAIN BATIK KOPI PECAH BANYUWANGI hidayat, Dinda Anisa Nur; Indarti, Indarti
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v5n2.p200-210

Abstract

The fashion industry is currently looking for more environmentally friendly alternatives. This research aims to describe the process of making Ready-To-Wear Deluxe clothing with the innovative use of natural dyes from coffe grounds and a combination of slashing techniques on Banyuwangi broken coffee batik cloth. The use of natural coloring from coffee grounds as an alternative to synthetic dyes and a combination of slashing techniques on Banyuwangi broken coffe batik cloth provide added value to the final product. This research applies the FEA Consumer Needs Model method to identify the Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic that consumers most seek in this product. The uniqe Ready-To-Wear Deluxe fashion product can contribute to the development of a sustainable fashion industry by utilizing the potential of local natural resources from the natural color characteristics of coffee grounds and also the attreactive modern aesthetic appearance of slashing techniques with traditional values. Apart from that, this research will analyze the final results of clothing produced from a combination of these techniques and materials. The research results can be used by designers of manufacturers to create products that not only meet functional needs, but also provide emotional and social value for consumers.
Penerapan Ekstraksi Warna Alami Pelepah Pisang Kepok (Musa Paradisiaca) untuk Pencelupan Kain Katun Primisima Nisa, Atina Khoiron; Dasining, Dasining; Mukaromah, Habibatul; Hanifah, Siti Nur; Siami, Siti Nur; Mu'imamah, Rosita Selvina Putri
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p22-29

Abstract

Natural substance coloring comes from natural ingredients that are the result of plant extracts, such as banana fronds that contain tannins in their sap and produce brown pigments. Dyeing of natural substances can be done using tunjung mordan and using Primisima cotton fabric. Primisima is a type of cotton with better quality than other types of cotton, with fine and thick fibers. This study aims to find out how to apply Primisima cotton fabric in the natural dyeing of kepok banana fronds using alum mordan (Al2SO4)3, lime (CaCO3), and tunjung (Fe(SO4)3) with dyeing techniques. The mordanting process is carried out in three ways, namely pre-mordan, simultaneous, and post-mordan, then fixed to lock the natural dyes of the mordan group and provide a more permanent color effect. The novelty of this research lies in the selection of natural dye materials from the fronds of the kepok banana and the use of different mordan combinations to obtain variations in color results in Primisima cotton fabric. Based on the dyeing results, the pre-mordan using the three mordans produces brown color and color flatness in the flat category, simultaneously produces light brown color with uneven color flatness, and post-mordan produces brown color with uneven color flatness. The best results were obtained by using the tunjung mordan on the pre-mordan, compared to simultaneous and post-mordan.
TANAMAN BERUS MATA BUAYA SEBAGAI INSIRASI MOTIF BATIK DALAM BUSANA KEBAYA MODERN Septianti, Septianti; Nurviana, Fenty
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p1-12

Abstract

The purpose of designing modern kebaya fashion inspired by the crocodile eye brush plant is as a form of introduction to the crocodile eye brush plant so that people will preserve and cultivate this plant which will later be introduced through batik motifs and applied to modern kebaya fashion. This is because the crocodile eye brush plant is a typical plant from the West Kalimantan Coast which has experienced a population decline due to the surrounding community destroying the habitat of this plant. To create this work, a qualitative descriptive approach method was used with a method of creating craft art with four stages, namely pre-design, design, manifestation, and presentation of the work. Through these stages, 3 fashion designs were produced with batik motifs inspired by the crocodile eye brush plant that were stylized. The three fashion designs have a distinctive feature on the neck with the addition of a tie accent on each dress, and the materials used are brocade and cotton cloth that has been batiked. The batik motif on this dress is applied to the skirt and back of the dress. The batik design displays the characteristics of flowers, leaves, and tendrils on the crocodile eye brush plant and the colors used in this dress are black and green. This creation resulted in three dresses with batik motifs inspired by the crocodile eye brush plant which were realized into modern kebaya dresses.
Pemanfaatan, Daun Ketapang, Daun Jambu Biji dan Daun Jarak Sebagai Pewarna Alami Pada Pembuatan Ecoprint Teknik Iron Blanket) Haq, Arina
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p30-36

Abstract

Natural textile dyes have a character that tends to be dull, so innovation is needed for maximum results. One of them is by combining leaves that have strong tannins with weak tannins, resulting in a new color composition. The purpose of this study is to describe the results of natural coloring of a combination of 3 leaves, ketapang, guava and distance. This study uses an experimental approach with a qualitative approach, with experimental and observational data collection methods, documentation and literature. The process begins with making dye extracts from the three leaves, the sourching process on the fabric, the mordunting process, the process of soaking the blanket cloth in a dye solution overnight, the process of arranging the leaves on the cloth that has been bitten, and covering with a blanket cloth that has been soaked with a solution of foliage dye extract. The process of rolling the cloth and steaming for 2 hours, and aerating for one night, the fixation process by applying a lime solution. The results of the experiment of combining 3 kinds of leaves on rayon twill fabric produced a light grayish-green color but intense so that the motif of the leaf bones is clearly visible, the color can be absorbed evenly and well. To get the maximum result, the color is flat and perfectly absorbed optimally using rayon twill cloth and the extra mordant process using soda ash, sodium acetate and tunjung must be implemented properly so that the 3 types of colors that have been absorbed can be easily transferred.
PENERAPAN HIASAN TUCKING BALEN PADA EVENING GOWN DAN BUSANA PRIA Killi, Frigelia Rebeka; Russanti, Irma
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p13-21

Abstract

The application of embellishments in clothing aims to enhance aesthetics and increase visual appeal. One technique that can be used is tucking, a fabric manipulation method involving repeated folds that are stitched to prevent movement. This technique is often applied to both garments and household linens. In this study, tucking ballen is used as an ornament on evening gowns and men's suits, creating a more unique and elegant fabric structure. The research employs the Double Diamond Design Process, which consists of four stages: discover, define, develop, and deliver. The design theme, borderless fusion, integrates traditional cultural elements with modern aesthetics. The fabrics used include Satin Duchess, glitter tulle, and wool, incorporating the tucking ballen technique. This study resulted in a collection of men's and women's evening wear showcased at the 2nd Annual Fashion Show of the D4 Fashion Design Program at UNESA. Findings indicate that the tucking ballen technique not only enhances the aesthetic value of garments but also provides an innovative structural element. This technique holds further potential for development in haute couture designs and can be combined with other fabric manipulation techniques to create more intricate and artistic designs.
KAJIAN TEKNIS PEWARNAAN BATIK DENGAN PEWARNA ALAMI DI KAMPUNG ALAM MALON GUNUNG PATI KOTA SEMARANG Damayanti, Ariyana; Haq, Arina
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p37-47

Abstract

The purpose of the study was to determine the natural coloring technique in the batik making process in Kampung Alam Malon, Gunung Pati District, Semarang City. Kampung Batik Alam Malon with its natural conditions is still pristine, there are many natural plants that can be used to make dyes, including indigo trees, jelawe trees, tall trees and so on. The research method in this study is descriptive exploratory. Data search will be carried out by means of literature studies, observations, observations, and interviews. Batik textile coloring takes a long time and a long process, starting from the preparation of textile materials with mordant, the waxing process, the first coloring at least 5 times of dipping, drying for 5 times, fixaxi with various solutions such as tunjung, lime and alum, from this fixaxi process natural dyes can be varied into various desired color choices. Natural dyes from jelawe produce yellow, indigovera produces blue and tall produces brown.
Penilaian Jaket Anak dengan Hiasan Teknik Smock Annisa Rahmawati, Dinda; Suryawati, Suryawati; Sesnawati, Yeni
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p129-135

Abstract

This study aims to obtain an assessment of children's jacket products using batik pemalang cloth with grombyang motif with smock technique decoration based on aspects of product quality, design elements and design principles. This research method uses quantitative descriptive. This study produced 5 children's jacket products with smock technique decorations which were assessed by 5 panelists with instrument data collection techniques using mixed questionnaires. The research instrument consisted of 21 statements and 2 questions. This rating is measured using a rating scale. The assessment was carried out using product quality theory according to W. H. Mayall and design element theory and design principles according to Wolfe. Based on the product quality aspect which consists of sub-aspects of maximum results, attractive appearance, and diverse shapes get a score of 90.1%. Furthermore, the aspect of design elements consisting of texture and color sub-aspects received a score of 85.4%. Then the aspect of design principles consisting of the sub-aspects of balance, harmony, and proportion received a score of 93.4%. In the emphasis sub-aspect, overall, the emphasis on the entire design lies in the smock. The product with the highest final assessment result in design 2 obtained a score of 92.3% and the lowest final assessment result in design 3 obtained a score of 88.3%.
Dewi Saraswati as a Source of Inspiration for the Creation of the "Gantari" Ready to Wear Clothing Elsi Hayuning Trias; Hapsari Kusumawardani; Endang Prahastuti; Annisau Nafiah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p115-128

Abstract

The creation of this work is based on the existence of Dewi Saraswati as the goddess of science and art in Hindu beliefs as the main inspiration due to the researcher's interest in culture and history so that she intends to put it into a fashion work as a form of creativity in designing a fashion collection. The process of creating this fashion work is based on the practice-led research approach through the study of fashion design practice, focusing on Dewi Saraswati as the main inspiration for the fashion creation. The combination of dark and light colors from the bold lurik fabric motifs as well as the rustic theme reinforced by the addition of macrame shows the figure of the Goddess who is authentic, beautiful and close to nature. The name Gantari, which in Sanskrit means to shine, is a representation of Dewi Saraswati's role on earth, namely as a manifestation of Ida Sang Hyang Widi (God in Hinduism) to guide humans on earth who live in darkness due to ignorance and confusion before the existence of science. In addition, the addition of details in the form of embroidered puppets in the form of Dewi Saraswati became the main point of this Gantari dress. The method of creating this work was carried out through four stages including the pre-design stage, design, realization, and the last is the presentation stage. The result of Gantari's creation was two works of ready to wear deluxe fashion presented in the UM 2023 Fashion Education Grand Show with a cat walk fashion show presentation form.
Small Chateau in Versailles Sebagai Inspirasi Baju Pesta Menggunakan Manipulating Cross Stitched Tucks Ramadhani, Aliyyah; Prihatina, Yuhri Inang
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p95-105

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to 1) find out the process of making manipulating cross stitched tucks on party dresses inspired by the Small Chateau in Versailles, 2) find out the finished results of party dresses using manipulating cross stitched tucks. The Small Chateau in Versailles was used as a source of inspiration because the interior of the pavilion featured decorations using decorative elements in the form of manipulated cross-stitched tucks inspired by the design of the stairs in the pavilion. Using the Double Diamond research method, which consists of 4 stages, namely Discover collecting ideas and information and then compiling them into a moodboard as a reference in the design process, Define developing ten design concepts which were then selected and realized into one final design that was most representative, Develop presenting design illustrations and technical drawings that describe the concept of clothing in detail, the last stage Deliver ensuring that the resulting product has met the established quality standards. The results of the study showed that the use of this technique was able to add artistic and textural dimensions to party dresses, because manipulating cross-stitched tucks resembled the stairs in the pavilion, creating an exclusive and characteristic appearance. The resulting design is able to present an elegant classic feel through decorative elements and innovative textile manipulation techniques, while remaining relevant to today's style.
Penerapan Manipulating Anyaman Pada Kain Jacquard Untuk Busana Pesta Bertema Masquerade Badriyah, Siti; Indarti, Indarti
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 6 No. 1 (2025)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v6n1.p63-73

Abstract

This study aims to describe the application of the weaving technique as a decorative element on a Masquerade-themed evening gown. The theme utilizes a gold and dark purple color palette dark purple conveying mystery and elegance, while gold adds luxury and warmth. The design draws inspiration from the architecture of the Palazzo Contarini Della Porta di Ferro in Venice. The research follows a six-stage creative process: problem identification, preliminary ideas, design refinement, prototype development, evaluation, and implementation. The results show that: 1) fabric manipulation through weaving is applied to women’s gowns on the bolero and the front and back of the skirt, and on men’s attire at the right front in a rectangular shape. 2) The women’s ensemble includes a dress, bolero, and small skirt; the men’s consists of a shirt, jacket, and pants. 3) The weaving is made using Jacquard fabric in two colors, with weft and warp widths of 1.5 cm each. The manipulated fabric is sewn using a machine, and the final products received good evaluations. Overall, the garments meet several design principles, effectively combining theme, technique, and aesthetics in their execution.

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