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BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa
Published by Universitas Negeri Surabaya
ISSN : 27472574     EISSN : 27472574.     DOI : https://doi.org/10.26740/baju
Core Subject : Humanities, Social,
Humanities Social Sciences
BAJU mempublikasikan artikel-artikel dari mahasiswa, dosen, guru, para peneliti dan profesional yang berisi hasil penelitian, penciptaan, gagasan pemikiran, dan kreasi atau inovasi lain dibidang desain mode dan tekstil, baik dalam bahasa Indonesia maupun bahasa Inggris. Diterbitkan setahun empat kali, memberikan kesempatan artikel anda untuk segera publish. BAJU menyediakan forum ilmiah untuk topik penciptaan atau praktik busana maupun tekstil. BAJU mendorong penelitian interdisipliner dan pengembangan komunitas akademik yang akan berbagi teori, teknologi, dan teknik yang baru di industri fashion dan tekstil, termasuk: - inovasi dalam desain dan praktik mode - keberlanjutan dan etika dalam industri mode - teknologi mikro dalam konteks fashion dan tekstil - smart and digital fashion dan tekstil - konsumsi dan produksi fashion - materials, design, concepts and process Kontribusi yang sesuai untuk jurnal ini terbagi dalam kategori berikut: - Research papers menyajikan temuan baru yang penting - Technical papers yang menjelaskan perkembangan atau inovasi baru - Academic discussion papers yang membahas tren dan prediksi jangka menengah hingga panjang.
Arjuna Subject : Seni dan Humaniora - Seni dan Humaniora (Lain-Lain)
Articles 109 Documents
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Penerapan Ragam Hias Aceh Kerawang Gayo dan Pinto Aceh pada Busana Pengantin Muslim Dengan Tema ‘Muara Gayo’ Rohmawati, Fira Zulia; Suhartini, Ratna
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 3 No. 2 (2022)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v3n2.p57-67

Abstract

Kerawang Gayo dan Pinto Aceh adalah nama ragamhias yang berkembangdi Aceh Tengah.Tujuan penelitian adalah mengetahui proses pembuatan dan hasil jadi penerapan ragam hias Aceh yaitu Kerawang Gayo dan Pinto Aceh pada busana pengantin muslimah yang bertema ‘MUARA GAYO’. Terinspirasi dari cerita legenda yang berada di Aceh yaitu Legenda Laut Tawar Aceh, yang menceritakan tentang pengembara gagah yangmendapatkan ilham untuk menguji masyarakat setempat. Proses penerapan ragam hias Kerawang Gayo dan Pinto Aceh dimulai dengan pembuatan desain, setelah itu pengaplikasian motif Kerawang Gayo dan Pinto Aceh dengan menggunakan teknik bordir danlekapan tali. Menggunakan kainorganza dan kain duces untuk bahan utamanya. Siluet yang digunakan pada busana ini adalah siluet L yaitu bentuk busana duyung lebar pada bagian bawah, dan memiliki jubah yang sangat lebar. Penerapan bordir stilasi ragam hias Kerawang Gayo terdapat pada bagian muka dan pada bagian punggung jubah, pada bagiansisi bawah jubahmenggunakan hiasan lekapan tali stilasi ragam hias Pinto Aceh. Kerawang Gayo and Pinto Acehare the names of ornamental varietiesthat developedin Central Aceh.The purpose of the study was to find out the manufacturing process andthe finished results of the application of Acehnese ornamental varieties, namely Kerawang Gayo and Pinto Aceh in theMuslimWomenWorkshop with the theme 'MUARA GAYO'. Inspired by the legendary story in Aceh, namely the Legend of Air TawarAceh, which tells about a dashing traveler who gets inspiration to test the local community.The process of applying the decorative variety Kerawang Gayo and Pinto Aceh begins with making a design, after that the application of Kerawang Gayoand Pinto Aceh motifsusing theembroideryand rope fixtures. It uses organza fabric and duces fabric for its main material. The silhouette used in this outfit is the L silhouette, which is a wide mermaid shape at the bottom, and has a very wide robe. The application of embroidery distillation ofvarious ornamental Kerawang Gayo is found on the face and on the back of the robe, on the lower side of the robeusing the decoration ofthe distillation rope of decorative variety Pinto Aceh.
Bunga Lavatera sebagai Sumber Ide Penciptaan Busana Pesta Rizkiya, Amaliya Lailatur; Yulistiana, Yulistiana; Indarti, Indarti
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 3 No. 2 (2022)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v3n2.p48-56

Abstract

Bunga Lavatera memiliki keindahan yang khas, ukurannya besar menarik perhatian dan warnanya yang cerah. Tujuan penelitian adalah untuk mendeskripsikan proses pembuatan dan hasil jadi busana pesta dengan sumber ide bunga Lavatera dengan teknik korsase. Metode penelitian ini menggunakan pendekatan a three stages design process atau tiga tahap proses desain. Metode ini terdiri dari 3 tahap penelitan: problem definition and research (definisi masalah dan penelitian), creative exploration (eksplorasi kreatif) dan implementasi. Pada tahap awal menentukan arah desain yaitu membuat busana pesta wanita dengan sumber inspirasi bunga Lavatera yang dibuat untuk wanita muda dengan tipe sexy alluring. Tahap kedua, peneliti membuat moodboard dan mengembangkan 10 desain sketsa busana pesta berupa gaun one piece. Dua desain terpilih diwujudkan menggunakan pola draping langsung di atas manekin ukuran medium. Tahap implementasi dengan menerapakan hiasan korsase yang besar sebagai pusat perhatian pada busana pesta. Proses pembuatan korsase dimulai dari menyiapakan kain organza yang sudah diplisket kecil, kemudian dipotong kotak dan dikerut pada bagian bawahnya untuk membuat helaian bunga. Hasil jadi busana pesta sesuai dengan yang diharapkan yaitu gaun yang dapat membalut tubuh dengan pas untuk wanita tipe sexy alluring dan menerapkan hiasan korsase yang menerapkan prinsip desain center of interest dan pengulangan. Lavatera flowers have a peculiar beauty, their large size attracts attention and bright color. The purpose of the study was to describe the process of making and finished evening dress with the source of the idea of Lavatera flowers with corsage techniques. This research method used a three-stage design process approach. This method consists of 3 stages of research: problem definition and research, creative exploration, and implementation. At the initial stage of determining the direction of design, namely making women's evening dress with a source of inspiration for Lavatera flowers made for young women with sexy alluring types. In the second stage, researchers created a moodboard and developed 10 evening dress sketch designs in the form of one-piece dresses. Two selected designs were realized using draping patterns directly on medium-sized mannequins. The implementation stage is by applying large corsage decorations as the center of interest in evening dress. The process of making corsages starts from preparing organza cloth that has been small pleats, then cut into squares and wrinkled at the bottom to make flower strands. The result of evening dress as expected, a dress that can wrap the body snugly for sexy alluring type women and apply corsage decorations that apply the design principles of center of interest and repetition.
Penerapan Desain Busana Pesta Malam dengan Sumber Ide Lampion Machda, Liza Fitriyah; Kharnolis, Mein
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 3 No. 2 (2022)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v3n2.p76-84

Abstract

Lampion adalah sebuah benda dekoratif yang biasanya terbuat dari kertas tipis yang dilapisi dengan rangka yang kuat dan diberi lubang-lubang kecil untuk memancarkan cahaya. Lampion biasanya digunakan untuk keperluan perayaan, dekorasi, atau kegiatan festival. Tujuan penelitian ini adalah untuk mengetahui hasil penerapan sumber ide lampion pada desain busana pesta malam. Proses desain yang dilakukan meliputi proses perancangan, proses pembuatan dan hasil jadi busana pesta. Proses perancangan terdiri dari tiga tahap yaitu menentukan sumber ide, pengembangan desain, pemilihan desain yang diwujudkan dan pemilihan bahan. Desain yang diwujudkan terdiri dari three pieces yaitu dress dalam yang berupa mini skirt dan bustier, lengan balon yang terpisah, dan bagian luar terdapat rok balon. Untuk membuat rok balon digunakan kerangka besi dari bahan almini. Untuk membuat rok balon, pertama adalah menentukan ukuran rok, kemudian memotong plat almini sesuai ukuran yang telah di tentukan, menggabungkan tiap jeruji almini secara horizontal dan vertical dengan cara di las hingga membentuk lingkaran. Selanjutnya adalah membuat pola dengan sistem drapping berupa rok setengah lingkar pada kerangka, setelah itu menandai garis pinggang pada pola toile. A lantern is a decorative object usually made of thin paper covered with a strong frame and given small holes to emit light. Lanterns are usually used for celebration, decoration, or festival activities. The purpose of this study was to determine the results of the application of lantern idea sources in evening wear. The design process carried out includes the design process, the manufacturing process, and the description of evening wear results. The design process consists of three stages, namely determining the source of ideas, developing designs, selecting embodied designs, and selecting materials. The final design that was realized consisted of three pieces, namely an inner dress in the form of a mini skirt and bustier, separate balloon sleeves, and outer in the form of a balloon skirt. To make balloon skirts used iron frame from almini material. To make a balloon skirt, first is to determine the size of the skirt, then cut the almini plate according to the predetermined size, combining each almini bar horizontally and vertically by welding it to form a circle. Next is to make a pattern with a drapping system in the form of a skirt half circumference on the skeleton, after that mark the waistline on the toile pattern.
Eksplorasi Ragam Hias Komodo dengan Teknik Lekapan Tali Pada Gaun Pengantin Putri, Jane Fitria Ananda; Suhartini, Ratna
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 3 No. 2 (2022)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v3n2.p85-95

Abstract

Komodo merupakan spesies biawak besar yang terdapat di pulau komodo, yang sering dijadikan sebagai ragam hias fauna di daeah Nusa Tenggara Timur. Tujuan penelitian ini untuk mengetahui proses eksploarsi ragam hias komodo dengan teknik lekapan tali pada gaun pengantin. Artikel ini menggunakan pendekatan penelitian penciptaan karya double diamond model, yang terdiri dari 4 tahapan yaitu discover, define, develop, dan deliver, ditambah dengan pengumpulan data menggunakan penilaian produk. Pengambilan data dengan mengambil lembar penilaian dengan jumlah penilai ahli sebanyak 4 orang dari dosen tata busana Unesa. Metode analisis data menggunakan metode deskriptif, dengan menghitung nilai rata-rata berdasarkan aspek penilaian produk. Proses penerapan lekapan tali dan ruffle di mulai dengan memotong kain satin lalu membentuk tali-tali atau sengkelit. Kemudian tali-tali tersebut dilekapkan pada permukaan kain tile yang polanya membentuk ragam hias komodo dengan dilekapkan mengunakan tusuk balut. Lalu mengatur peletakan lekapan tali pada bagian muka dan belakang busana. Hasil jadi eksplorasi ragam hias komodo dengan teknik lekapan tali pada gaun pengantin mendapat nilai dengan kategori sangat baik dengan rata-rata hasil penilaian 4,625. Komodo is a large monitor lizard species found on the island of Komodo, which is often used as a variety of ornamental fauna in East Nusa Tenggara. The purpose of this study was to determine the process of exploring the variety of Komodo dragon ornaments with the rope fixture technique on wedding dresses. This article uses a research approach to the creation of double diamond model, which consists of 4 stages, namely discover, define, develop, and deliver, plus data collection using product assessment. Data collection by taking an assessment sheet with the number of expert assessors as many as 4 people from Unesa fashion design lecturers. The data analysis method uses a descriptive method, by calculating the average value based on aspects of product valuation. The process of applying rope and ruffle fixtures begins with cutting satin fabric and then forming ropes or stings. Then the ropes are stretched on the surface of the tile cloth whose pattern forms a variety of Komodo dragon ornaments by stretched using a wrap band. Then adjust the placement of the strap on the face and back of the clothes. The results of exploring the variety of Komodo dragons with rope techniques on wedding dresses received a score in the very good category with an average assessment result of 4,625.
Penerapan Crinoline sebagai Garnitur pada Busana Pesta Malam Model Strapless Fiaunillah, Wasalma Haq; Sakti, Asri Wibawa
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 3 No. 2 (2022)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v3n2.p96-102

Abstract

Tujuan penelitian ini adalah untuk mengetahui proses pembuatan crinoline sebagai garnitur pada busana pesta malam model strapless, dan mengetahui hasil penerapan crinoline sebagai garnitur pada busana pesta malam model strapless. Metode yang digunakan dalam penelitian ini adalah penciptaan karya yang terdiri dari empat tahap. Pertama, tahap pra-perancangan. Kedua, tahap perancangan. Ketiga, tahap perwujudan. Keempat, tahap penyajian. Hasil dari penelitian ini adalah: Proses pembuatan penerapan crinoline dan payet sebagai garnitur pada busana pesta malam model strapless menggunakan crinoline yang telah dilis dengan kain satin duchess dimulai dari membuat desain manipulating crinoline yang sesuai dengan bentuk sumber ide tanaman hias sukulen. Proses penerapan crinoline dan payet dimulai dengan kain crinoline yang dipotong sesuai pola. Kemudian dijahit teknik selusup atau blind stitch pada garis pinggang sesuai desain. Lalu mengatur peletakan payet menggunakan teknik pola asimetris. Hasil jadi penerapan crinoline sebagai garnitur pada busana pesta malam model strapless sesuai dengan sumber ide tanaman hias sukulen jenis Haworthia. Pemilihan karakteristik bahan menggunakan warna hijau botol serta manipulating crinoline dan payet membuat gaun terlihat kesan segar dan elegan. The aim of the research is to find out the process of making crinoline as a garniture in strapless model evening party dress, and to find out the results of applying crinoline as a garniture in strapless model evening party dress. The method used in this study is the creation of works consisting of four stages. First, the pre-design stage. Second, the design stage. Third, the embodiment stage. Fourth, the stage of serving. The results of this study are: The process of making the application of crinoline and sequins as a garniture in strapless model evening party dress using crinoline that has been dilated with duchess satin fabric starts from making crinoline manipulating designs that match the shape of the source of succulent ornamental plant ideas. The process of applying crinoline and sequins begins with crinoline fabric cut according to patterns. Then sewn the technique of sheath or blind stitch on the waistline according to the design. Then set the laying of the sequins using an asymmetrical pattern technique. The finished result of the application of crinoline as a garniture in strapless model evening party dress is in accordance with the source of the idea of Haworthia type succulent ornamental plants. The selection of material characteristics using bottle green colors as well as crinoline and sequin manipulating makes the dress look fresh and elegant.
Pengembangan Desain Blus dan Rok Zero Waste dengan Konsep Geometric Pattern Anindhya Riski Fatkharani; Ratna Suhartini
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v4n1.p1-8

Abstract

Zero waste fashion design is product design by implementing a lifestyle to minimize waste by optimizing geometric pattern techniques. The purpose of this study is to describe the results of the development of zero waste blouse and skirt designs with geometric pattern concepts. The research method used is the double diamond design development method which consists of 4 stages, namely (1) discover which is the idea search stage, inspired by the concept of zero waste fashion which has less than 15% waste, (2) define which is identification for taking the source of ideas by creating a moodboard, (3) develop which is developing 4 designs with different placement of batik motifs block system, and (4) deliver, namely 4 design developments that are most in line with zero waste inspiration and geometric pattern techniques. The results of the research data show that to make blouses and skirts, it is necessary to determine the development of designs on the silhouettes of blouses and skirts to match the concept of zero waste with geometric patterns.
Penerapan Spiral Flounce pada Evening Dress dengan Tema Lucullian of Camelia Putri Berlian Budi Kanaya; Yuhri Inang Prihatina
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar

Abstract

This research aims to find out the application process and the finished evening dress with Camelia flower as the source of the idea using the spiral flounce technique. The research method used is Double Diamond, which consists of 4 stages discover, define, develop, and deliver. The discover stage searches for and collects inspiration about the characteristics of Camellias, Define and determines the source of ideas to be used as a mood board, determines the color plan and materials, makes an illustration design by the head of thoughts, develops, and determines the illustration design, production design, and spiral flounce trials, the last stage delivers the completion of the finished fashion with Camellia flower inspiration. The finished result of the evening dress showed that it was as expected, namely a dress with an L silhouette using a v-neck, using red color with sequins and lace decoration that successfully created a luxurious impression (lucullian) and beautified the appearance of the outfit. Spiral flounce applied on the right, and left sleeves applied the principles of balance that formed the silhouette of the Camellia flower. The finished product met the desired. Keywords: spiral flounce, evening dress, lucullian, camelia flower
Hemisveric sebagai Sumber Ide Penciptaan Busana Pesta Ani Robiha; Urip Wahyuningsih
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

The hemisveric building has a unique beauty, this unique beauty makes this building a tourist spot. The purpose of this research is to describe the process of making and finished dresses with the source of the idea, namely the hemisveric, with the tucking technique. This research method uses a three stages design process approach or three stages of the design process. This method consists of 3 stages of research: problem definition and research, creative exploration and implementation. In the early stages of determining the design direction, namely making women's dresses with hemisveric sources of inspiration made for young women with the art of beat type. In the second stage, the researcher made a moodboard and developed 10 sketch designs for dresses in the form of one piece dresses. The two selected designs were created using construction and draping patterns. The implementation phase is implementing Cross Stitched Tucks and Slashed Trucks as the center of interest in party attire. The process of making tucking starts from preparing the bridal satin fabric that has been made in the form of tucking, then it is cut according to the design. The result of the party dress is as expected, namely a dress that fits the body properly for an art of beat type woman and applies a tucking decoration that applies the center of interest design principle.
Penerapan Dirrect Transfer Film (DTF) dengan Motif System Neuron Jellyfish pada Busana Evening Gown Jenifer Theresa Lopis; Yuhri Inang Prihatina
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar

Abstract

The Neuron Jellyfish motif has a distinctive beauty and uniqueness in the form of channel lines from the branching jellyfish nerves. The research objectives are 1) to describe the application of DTF technique and 2) to know the finished result of DTF, with Neuron Jellyfiish motif system on Evening Gown fashion. This research method uses the Double Diomond method which has 4 stages, namely: the initial stage Discover stage where it determines the direction of fashion design, making an evening party dress with Jellyfish as the source of inspiration made for young women with sexy uniqe, and funky types. The second stage, Define, is the application of a source of inspiration, then creating a motif design, sketch design, and illustration design. The third stage is Develop at this stage the researcher makes a Toal trial, then creates a one-piece outfit with silhouette I, after that applying the DTF screen printing results to the main material of the outfit, then the fourth stage Deliver is the stage of delivering the finished result of the outfit. The results showed that making Evening Gown fashion needs to look at the technique of applying motif decoration, determining the colour and silhouette to match the inspiration.
Penerapan Modifikasi Motif Kangkung Batik Tanah Unesa pada Outer Ready-To-Wear Alfiyah Yaziidah Azizirrohmah; Irma Russanti
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

The modification of the kangkung motif has a beautiful and bright color. The aim of the study was to apply modifications to the Unesa land kangkung motif on outer ready-to-wear designs and the finished product of applying modifications to Unesa soil kangkung motifs to outer ready-to-wear. This research method uses the Double Diamond approach. This method consists of 4 stages Discover, Define, Develop, and Deliver. At the discover stage, we collect insights about the modification of the kangkung motif and understand the outer ready-to-wear fashion trends. Define stage, looking for sources of ideas and ideas that will be used to produce outer ready-to-wear in the form of moodboards. The develop stage, the development of 10 designs according to the moodboard. Followed by the deliver stage, design selection and manufacture of outer ready-to-wear products. Then data was collected by 6 lecturers of fashion design and D4 Fashion Design students who had taken batik and casual wear/clothing production courses. Data collection was analyzed using descriptive quantitative by looking for the mean (average) which showed that based on 10 developments of outer ready-to-wear designs, the observer chose design 8 with a total average of 4.71 out of 5 aspects belonging to the very good category and the results so outer ready-to-wear as a design embodiment has a total average of 4.15 belonging to the good category so that it can be stated that the finished outer ready-to-wear can be well received. Keywords: Modification of the kangkung motif, Unesa soil batik, outer, ready-to-wear

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