BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa
BAJU mempublikasikan artikel-artikel dari mahasiswa, dosen, guru, para peneliti dan profesional yang berisi hasil penelitian, penciptaan, gagasan pemikiran, dan kreasi atau inovasi lain dibidang desain mode dan tekstil, baik dalam bahasa Indonesia maupun bahasa Inggris. Diterbitkan setahun empat kali, memberikan kesempatan artikel anda untuk segera publish. BAJU menyediakan forum ilmiah untuk topik penciptaan atau praktik busana maupun tekstil. BAJU mendorong penelitian interdisipliner dan pengembangan komunitas akademik yang akan berbagi teori, teknologi, dan teknik yang baru di industri fashion dan tekstil, termasuk: - inovasi dalam desain dan praktik mode - keberlanjutan dan etika dalam industri mode - teknologi mikro dalam konteks fashion dan tekstil - smart and digital fashion dan tekstil - konsumsi dan produksi fashion - materials, design, concepts and process Kontribusi yang sesuai untuk jurnal ini terbagi dalam kategori berikut: - Research papers menyajikan temuan baru yang penting - Technical papers yang menjelaskan perkembangan atau inovasi baru - Academic discussion papers yang membahas tren dan prediksi jangka menengah hingga panjang.
Articles
109 Documents
<![CDATA[Penerapan Modifikasi Circular Flounce pada Busana Pesta dengan Inspirasi Bunga Calla Lily ]]>
<![CDATA[Bella Stevania Diwanti]]>;
<![CDATA[Yulistiana Yulistiana]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[The addition of Manipulating fabric to clothing aims to make clothing look more attractive and can be a selling point for the clothing, the application of Circular flounce is one way to create a luxurious impression on dresses. The purpose of this study was to 1) find out the process of making modified circular flounce patterns, 2) find out how to apply circular flounce modifications to evening party dresses inspired by Calla lilies, and 3) find out the result of the evening party dress with the inspiration of the Calla lily flower. The method used is the Double Diamond Design Process, which consists of 4 stages, namely the discover Define, develop, and the last stage deliver. The data collection instrument was conducted by distributing questionnaires on the process, application, and finished results of making party dresses to experts in the field of fashion with a scale of 1 to 4. Data analysis techniques used average descriptive analysis techniques. The results of the research show that 1) to make a party dress, it is necessary to determine the modification pattern of Circular flounce according to the right design and size so that the fall of the flounce wave can be perfect. 2) The finished result is the application of circular flounce modifications to party dresses inspired by calla lilies. 3) The finished results of party dresses inspired by calla lilies get a mean of 3.50 for each indicator, with a very good or appropriate category.]]>
<![CDATA[Penerapan Teknik Quilting pada Baju Pesta dengan Sumber Ide Merpati Hijau dan Calathea ]]>
<![CDATA[Nur Evelynasari]]>;
<![CDATA[Indarti Indarti]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[The green pigeon has beautiful wings dominated by green color. Calathea leaves are oval, striped motif. This study aims to provide a descriptive description of the process of making and finishing the finished party dress by taking the idea of green doves and Calathea leaves, using quilting techniques. This research method uses three stages in the design process (a three stages design process) consisting of problem definition and research, creative exploration and implementation. The initial stage of determining the concept of a women's party dress design that took inspiration from green doves and Calathea leaves focused on feminine and masculine styles. In the second stage, making moodboards and developing ten sketches of women's party dress designs were used as references. The two selected designs were realized through making construction patterns. At the implementation stage, quilting ornaments are applied as the main focus or center of attention in party attire. The process of making quilting uses satin, crinolin, and brocade. The end result of party wear is as expected, by creating dresses that combine feminine and masculine styles. The fashion style looks feminine with a slim bottom skirt and looks masculine at the top using an outer that looks straight and dashing.]]>
<![CDATA[Pengembangan Desain Busana Pesta Muslim Maskulin dengan Inspirasi Pinecone ]]>
<![CDATA[Lea Cisadewi]]>;
<![CDATA[Yulistiana Yulistiana]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[The purpose of the study was to determine the development of masculine muslim party dress designs with Pinecone inspiration. Inspired by the Pinecone which can open its scales when it's dry and close its scales when it's cold. Method used is the Double Diamond Design Process which consists of 4 stages: Discover stage by searching and gathering information about Pinecone. Define stage is the identify stage from the Discover and determines the most important priorities which are combined on the Moodboard and handling order. Develop stage is the design development stage from the basic design to be transformed into a masculine muslim party dress in the form of an A-line silhouette dress, there is a long waistcoat, the colors used are monochromatic colors, and application of decorative motifs with embroidery and laser cutting techniques. Deliver stage is the last stage, input is collected, selected, and approved with the 5 best design developments and the most appropriate sources of inspiration in the form of two-piece and three-piece clothing. Results showed that to make appropriate masculine muslim party dress, it is necessary to develop a design so that new innovations in masculine muslim party dress will emerge.]]>
<![CDATA[Kuda Laut sebagai Inspirasi Motif Sablon DTF (Direct Transfer Film) pada Evening Gown ]]>
<![CDATA[Aisyah Angela]]>;
<![CDATA[Indarti Indarti]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[Sea horse is an animal in the Hippocampus species in the form of a jagged body shape with a head resembling a horse, a crown on the head and a pointed elongated tail in accordance with a unique morphological shape and looks strange. The purpose of this study is to describe the process of making motif designs and the resulting motifs on evening dresses using DTF screen printing with seahorse inspiration. This research method uses the Double Diamond Model which consists of 4 stages, namely Discover, Define, Develop, and Deliver. In the early stages of determining the direction of the evening dress design by exploring the source of seahorse ideas to be used as a moodboard. The second stage is to develop the moodboard into fashion design sketches and motifs. The third stage is making 10 fashion design developments by placing motifs. The fourth stage is testing the feasibility of the clothing by selecting 1 best design to be realized into a product by making a production design, making a prototype on the total and testing the DTF screen printing. The results of this study resulted in a DTF screen printing motif inspired by a seahorse and transformed into an evening dress with an I silhouette, applying decorations and using colors that match the inspiration.]]>
<![CDATA[Penerapan Teknik Bordir Kombinasi Quilting Motif Daun Ketela Pada Blus Batik pecelan Khas Madiun ]]>
<![CDATA[Vio Aulia Nurhalisa Mahmud]]>;
<![CDATA[Yuhri Inang Prihatina]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol 4 No 1 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[Cassava leaves have a distinctive feature in batik pecelan typical of Madiun, batik pecel / pecelan is one of the typical foods of the Madiun region and is an icon of the city of Madiun. In pecelan food there are vegetables accompanying pecel sauce such as cassava leaves, sprouts, long beans, turi flowers, kale and so on. The purpose of the research is to describe the process of developing embroidery techniques combined with Quilting applied to batik pecelan outers as one of the new innovative developments in batik pecelan typical of Madiun. This method consists of 4 research stages: discover, define, develop and deliver. In the initial stage, determining the source of the idea, namely the cassava leaf motif taken from one of the motifs in pecelan batik which will be applied to the quiting technique and then given a completion using the embroidery technique. In the second stage, researchers made a moodboard and developed 5 designs, one selected design was realized into a blouse. The third stage is by applying the embroidery technique combined with quilting on the cassava leaf motif. The fourth stage is the finished blouse according to the embroidery technique combined with the quilting technique as a decoration.]]>
<![CDATA[APLIKASI BORDIR KOMPUTER 3 DIMENSI PADA GAUN MALAM DENGAN SUMBER IDE ILALANG ]]>
<![CDATA[Dewi, Inas Mutiara]]>;
<![CDATA[Yulistiana, Yulistiana]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 4 No. 2 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[Weeds or lying grass are often considered nuisance plants or weeds, because they easily grow anywhere on empty land. The purpose of writing this article is: (1) to describe the process of making 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications on evening dresses; (2) to describe the process of applying 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications to evening gowns; and (3) to describe the finished results of the application of 3-dimensional computer embroidery on evening gowns. Weeds can be used as a source of ideas for making a three-piece evening gown consisting of a jumpsuit, outer dress and layered skirt using fabric manipulation using a 3-dimensional computer embroidery application as a transition source for weed ideas. Computer embroidery is the newest technology today so that the process is easier and faster according to the desired design. The work engineering method starts from determining the source of ideas in the form of a moodboard, planning colors and materials, designing dresses, the process of making evening dresses, the process of making 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications starting with creating motif designs on the computer and then applying them to evening dresses. The results of changing evening gowns using fabric manipulation using 3-dimensional computer embroidery applications produce clothing that looks real, beautiful, and elegant.]]>
<![CDATA[Stilasi Tanaman Carica Sebagai Sumber Ide Motif Batik ]]>
<![CDATA[Jhundy, Brilliant Angellia]]>;
<![CDATA[Wahyuningsih, Urip]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 4 No. 2 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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DOI: 10.26740/baju.v4n1.p96-102
<![CDATA[Stylization is a process of changing shape by looking at objects from various directions with stylization so as to create new motifs that are more varied and innovative without losing the characteristics of the source of the idea itself. Carica plants have contrasting colors between the leaves, fruit and stems. The large, shiny green leaves contrast with the bright yellow or orange fruit, making the carica plant look attractive and alluring to those who see it. This study aims to determine 1) the process of creating batik motifs using stylization techniques, 2) the results of stylized motifs applied to batik cloth. The method used is the Double Diamond Model which consists of 4 stages, namely: discover (find the uniqueness of the carica plant and the characteristics of the carica batik motif), define (summarize the findings in the form of a moodboard as the basis for making designs), develop (realize ideas by making stylized and batik designs by using the source of the idea of the carica plant), and deliver (production of carica motif batik cloth). This research resulted in 10 designs of carica batik motifs, and of the 10 designs, 1 design was selected which was embodied in the form of carica batik cloth.]]>
<![CDATA[Pembuatan Dress Korset Cheongsam Era Renaissance Dengan Aplikasi Bordir 3D ]]>
<![CDATA[Bilqis, Jihan]]>;
<![CDATA[Arifiana, Deny]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 4 No. 2 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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DOI: 10.26740/baju.v4n2.p162-170
<![CDATA[Cheongsam is a traditional Chinese garment also known as qipao. The purpose of this research is to describe the process of creating a Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress with 3D embroidery application and to describe the final result of the Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress with 3D application. The research method used is the creative work method, which includes pre-design, design, realization, and presentation. In the pre-design stage, the source of inspiration used is the traditional Chinese garment, the cheongsam, combined with Renaissance corset design. The main fabric used is duchess satin, with tricot used as interlining to provide stability to the corset. In the realization stage, the design of the cheongsam corset dress is implemented into a fashion piece through processes such as measurement taking, pattern making, fabric cutting, and sewing. The garment is adorned with 3D embroidery application and sequins. The presentation stage is conducted through a seminar, describing the process of creation and the final result of the Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress. The result of this research is a Renaissance-era cheongsam corset dress with 3D embroidery application that combines traditional Chinese design with Renaissance corset design. This research contributes to the development of cheongsam fashion design through the application of 3D embroidery technique.]]>
<![CDATA[Penciptaan Busana Pesta Malam dengan Sumber Ide Bunga Aster ]]>
<![CDATA[Rufaydah, Indana]]>;
<![CDATA[Wahyuningsih, Urip]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 4 No. 2 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[Daisies are often referred to as stars, have many types of colors that make anyone stunned to see them. With its beauty, daisies are used as a source of ideas for the creation of a collection of evening party dresses. This study aims to determine the process of creating an evening party dress design with the source of the daisy flower idea. This research method uses the Double Diamond Design Process, which is divided into 4 stages, including discover, which is an exploration of the theme discussed in this study, namely "daisies" in which the appearance of a star-like flower figure, strands of daisies are in the shape of a circle, ranging from round to shaped like a disc. . The results obtained from applying the source of ideas to a work in the form of a moodboard. The define stage, from the results of the moodboard then makes 10 design developments. The develop stage is the stage of choosing 2 designs to be realized according to the inspiration pictures that emerged from the source of ideas to be realized in the draping pattern technique using medium size on dressfoam. The deliver stage is the process of making the details of the daisy-shaped decoration taken from the shape of the daisy crown by cutting staples according to the pattern, pressed with a satin/organza cloth to make flower crown strands and finally decorated with sequins and arranging the lace on the dress that has been given sequins and stabbed tracks. The results of the research are the finished clothes using the drapping technique and the manufacture of decorative details according to the source of ideas that apply the design principles of the center of interest and proportions.]]>
<![CDATA[Eksplorasi Tabebuya sebagai Sumber Ide pada Desain Motif Batik Tanah Unesa ]]>
<![CDATA[Rochmawati, Zulfika]]>;
<![CDATA[Russanti, Irma]]>
<![CDATA[ BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 4 No. 2 (2023) ]]>
Publisher : <![CDATA[Universitas Negeri Surabaya ]]>
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<![CDATA[Tabebuya has a distinctive beauty, attractive shapes and colors that can be applied in Unesa soil batik coloring. This research uses the Double Diamond approach. This method consists of 4 stages Discover, Define, Develop, and Deliver. In the early stages of identifying the facts of the problem in the form of a lack of development of Surabaya city flora motifs in Batik Tanah Unesa. The second stage, analyzing researchers who have been identified at the discovery stage is in the form of a moodboard. The third stage, embodiment where the design idea has been generated will be shaped into a work. Followed by the last stage of the manufacturing stage and design selection from the solutions that have been obtained from the previous stage. The process of developing motifs starts with preparing tools and materials, then the process is drawing designs on paper, followed by tracing on cloth, and on batik so that the finished result appears on the cloth. The result of the expected batik motif is the result of the batik motif in accordance with the size of the motif design, starting from the main, supporting, and isen motifs according to the source of the Tabebuia idea.]]>
