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Journal : Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics

Optimization of Formula and In Vitro Activity Testing of O/W Lotion Cosmetic Formulations Containing Ethanol Extract of Cat's Whiskers Leaves (Orthosiphon aristatus) as Sunscreen Yasir, Angga Saputra; Suryaneta, Suryaneta; Putri, Tikarahayu; Saputra, Iwan; Handayani, Kiki; Zulaicha, Annisaa; Sari, Indah Puspita; Nurhayati, Veni; Sholeha, Aida
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 2 No. 1 (2024): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM), Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v2i1.1809

Abstract

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight can induce erythema, sunburn, and skin sensitivity, culminating in dermal damage. The application of sunscreen mitigates potential skin harm resulting from solar radiation. This investigation aims to ascertain the optimal formulation for lotion preparations incorporating Orthosiphon aristatus leaf extract and evaluate the sunscreen efficacy of said formulations through in vitro testing. Extraction procedures involved ethanol maceration, followed by phytochemical characterization of the resultant extract. Formulation of the extract into oil-in-water (O/W) lotion preparations was executed, with optimization conducted utilizing the Simplex Lattice Design (SLD) method, incorporating varied concentrations of stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, and olive oil to assess their impact on lotion viscosity, spreadability, and adhesion. Subsequent evaluation encompassed in vitro assessment of sunscreen activity for both the lotion and extract. Findings revealed the presence of flavonoids, saponins, and tannins in the extract. Optimal lotion formulation, determined via the SLD method, yielded concentrations of 2.00, 4.22, and 8.78 for stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, and olive oil, respectively. Formulation optimization was guided by minimizing viscosity while maximizing spreadability and adhesion. Confirmation studies underscored the predictive capacity of the SLD method in determining viscosity, spreadability, and adhesion of the cat's whiskers leaf extract lotion. SPF values for the extract and lotion were recorded as 33.63 ± 0.963 and 2.54 ± 0.001, respectively, at a concentration of 30,000 ppm.
PHYTOCHEMICAL SCREENING AND FREE RADICAL–SCAVENGING ACTIVITY OF ORTHOSIPHON STAMINEUS (CAT WHISKERS) LEAVES Sari, Indah Puspita
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 1 No. 1 (2023)
Publisher : Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM), Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v1i1.1639

Abstract

Orthosiphon stamineus, commonly known as "Cat's Whiskers" or "Java Tea," is a medicinal herb found in Southeast Asian nations, known for its historical use in treating various ailments. This study aimed to extract and analyze the phytochemical composition of Orthosiphon stamineus using the maceration technique, followed by an assessment of its antioxidant potential through the DPPH assay. The phytochemical screening revealed the presence of flavonoids, saponins, and tannins, which align with prior research. Notably, the plant contains polyphenolic compounds, with flavonoids like sinensetin and eupatorin, as well as terpenoids, including labdane diterpenes. Essential oils, mainly composed of monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes, were also identified. While alkaloids like orthosiphol C have been reported, they were not detected in this research. The DPPH assay demonstrated that the extract exhibited increasing inhibitory activity against DPPH radicals with higher concentrations, indicating its potential as a natural antioxidant source. The presence of rosmarinic acid and flavonoids suggests potential antioxidant effects that may be explored further. Overall, this study provides insights into the phytochemical profile of Orthosiphon stamineus and its potential benefits, particularly in skin anti-aging. Further research is needed to fully understand the pharmacological significance of its compounds.
Phytochemical Screening of Deep Eutectic Solvent Extract of Butterfly Pea (Clitoria ternatea L.) Sari, Indah Puspita
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 2 No. 2 (2024): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM), Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v2i2.2183

Abstract

This study aims to evaluate the phytochemical content of butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea L.) extract using the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) method with a deep eutectic solvent (DES) composed of choline chloride and citric acid in a 1:1 molar ratio, with the addition of 10% water. The extraction process was carried out for 30 minutes at a temperature of 50°C. Phytochemical screening results showed that the DES extract of butterfly pea contains various bioactive compounds, including alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, terpenoids, and saponins, each exhibiting distinct color reactions or precipitates during testing. Flavonoids, particularly anthocyanins, produced a stable red color under acidic conditions and upon interaction with metal ions, indicating potential as natural colorants and antioxidants. Tannins formed dark green complexes with FeCl₃, while terpenoids produced a reddish-brown color as a result of the reaction with Salkowski reagent. Saponins generated stable foam due to their amphiphilic nature, indicating surfactant activity beneficial for cosmetic formulations. Overall, these findings suggest that the DES-based butterfly pea extract holds strong potential as a natural bioactive source for cosmetic applications, particularly due to its prominent flavonoid content and antioxidant activity.
IMPACT OF TITANIUM DIOXIDE CONCENTRATION ON WHITECAST FORMATION IN DAY CREAM FORMULATION Sari, Indah Puspita; Rika Oktavia
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 3 No. 1 (2025): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM), Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v3i1.2271

Abstract

Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) is widely used in day cream formulations as a physical UV filter due to its broad-spectrum protection and stabilizing properties. However, its tendency to produce a visible whitecast on the skin presents a major aesthetic drawback, particularly for consumers with medium to dark skin tones. This study aimed to formulate three variants of day cream containing different concentrations of TiO₂ (6%, 3.3%, and 2%) and evaluate their visual characteristics, pH compatibility, and consumer-perceived whitecast intensity to determine the optimal balance between UV protection and cosmetic elegance. All formulations were prepared following a standardized emulsification protocol using identical excipient compositions, with TiO₂ concentration as the only variable. Organoleptic and pH evaluations were conducted, followed by a sensory assessment involving 20 respondents who evaluated whitecast visibility and overall preference using structured questionnaires. All formulations demonstrated desirable visual and organoleptic characteristics, including homogeneous white color, soft mango fragrance, and smooth texture with a pH within the ideal physiological range (4.5–5.5). Sensory evaluation revealed that higher TiO₂ concentrations led to more pronounced whitecast. Formulation F3 (2% TiO₂) was most preferred by 75% of respondents for its minimal whitecast and natural finish. The results indicate a direct correlation between TiO₂ concentration and whitecast intensity. While higher TiO₂ concentrations improve opacity and UV protection, they compromise cosmetic acceptability. Formulation with 2% TiO₂ offers an optimal balance for daily cosmetic use, supporting the development of aesthetically pleasing and functionally protective skincare products.
INESIA LOTION INSTABILITY: EFFECTS OF OPACIFIER AND THICKENER CONCENTRATION AND REFORMULATION putri nurhayati, veni; Sari, Indah Puspita
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 3 No. 1 (2025): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v3i1.2274

Abstract

This study aims to analyze the effect of opacifier (Titanium Dioxide) and thickener (Carbomer) concentrations on phase instability in Inesia Hand and Body Lotion Midsummer products, and to formulate reformulation solutions to improve their stability. Initial observations on the commercial product (Formula F1) showed severe phase instability, characterized by two-layer separation after 27 hot-cold cycle tests. To address this, three experimental formulas (F3, F4, F5) were designed by varying the concentrations of Carbomer and Titanium Dioxide, using F1 as an unstable control and F2 as a stable control. Accelerated stability test results over 27 cycles showed that Carbomer concentration was the dominant factor in determining emulsion stability. Formulas F1 and F4, with low Carbomer concentrations (0.12% and 0.14%), experienced significant instability (total separation in F1, slight creaming in F4) exacerbated by higher Titanium Dioxide concentrations. In contrast, Formula F5 (1,20% Carbomer, 0.09% TiO2​) showed emulsion stability, maintaining perfect homogeneity for 26 cycles. Interestingly, Formula F3 (0.16% Carbomer, 0.10% TiO2​) also proved to be very stable and equivalent to F2, indicating an effective threshold for optimal stability. Organoleptic evaluation supported the physical stability findings. Increasing Carbomer concentration proved to be an effective reformulation strategy in overcoming phase instability in Inesia body lotion. This research provides a scientific basis for the development of more stable cosmetic products.