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FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF EAU DE PARFUME (EDP) FLORAL AROMA CHARACTERISTICS Tikarahayu Putri; Kiki Yuli Handayani; Muhammad Reza
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 1 No. 1 (2023)
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v1i1.1634

Abstract

Currently, perfumes have emerged as highly sought-after cosmetic products in the Indonesian consumer market, aligning with the demands of daily life for enhanced self-assurance. Various types of perfume are categorized based on the ratio of fragrant oil content to solvent. Presently, the prevailing perfumes available in the market predominantly belong to the category with low concentrations of fragrant oils. The principal objective of this research is to formulate a product recipe for Eau de Perfume (EDP) with sweet and floral characteristics. The methodology employed in this study is experimental and consists of two phases: perfume formulation, evaluation, and final product development. The evaluation conducted in this research encompasses organoleptic and physical assessment, aroma longevity testing, spot testing, hedonic evaluation, and sensory testing. Based on the data collected from the research results, it can be concluded that the perfumes with longer aroma longevity are formulas F1 and F2. The average area of EDP spray dispersion is 74,48 mm. The most preferred hedonic test result was obtained from formula F2. Organoleptic test data for all formulas showed a clear and particle-free, the colorless solution observed after one month of storage. The solution’s viscosity increased during the fourth week due to the partial evaporation of the solvent. Sensory analysis results revealed that the aroma of all three formulas was characterized as sweet with floral undertones.
STABILITY AND IRRITATION TESTING USING THE PATCH TEST METHOD OF A COMBINATION GEL FORMULATION CONTAINING ALOE VERA AND BASIL LEAF EXTRACTS Angga Saputra Yasir; Suryaneta Suryaneta; Kiki Yuli Handayani; Bagus Satria
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 1 No. 1 (2023)
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v1i1.1638

Abstract

Aloe vera and basil leaves have been recognized for their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Combining these extracts into a gel formulation offers convenience in application. However, research concerning potential irritations associated with its use remains limited. This study aims to assess irritation in humans resulting from the application of a gel formulation containing basil and aloe vera extracts using patch testing. The gel formulation is prepared with a 2% concentration of the extracts, with a 1:1 ratio of basil to aloe vera extracts. Optimization is achieved by varying carbopol concentrations and the final pH of the gel formulation. The parameters used for determining the optimal formula include organoleptic characteristics, viscosity, spreadability, adhesiveness, and pH of the formulation. The optimal formula is subsequently subjected to stability testing over four weeks and irritation testing using patch methods. A total of 25 volunteers are involved in the irritation testing. Observations are made up to 72 hours after the removal of the formulation to ensure the absence of delayed irritation effects. Aloe vera and basil extractions using ethanol as a solvent yield sequential yields of 1.7% and 3%, respectively. Quality evaluation for Formulations I (FI), II (FII), and III (FIII) includes spreadability, adhesiveness, and viscosity, as follows: (4.1 cm; 5.4 seconds; 5504 mPa.s); (6.5 cm; 4.1 seconds; 3480 mPa.s); and (5.2 cm; 4.2 seconds; 6340 mPa.s), respectively. FII is selected as the optimal formula because it exhibits wider spreadability and lower viscosity compared to FI and FIII (P <0.05). Stability testing for FII shows that the formula remains stable during storage for all quality testing parameters (P > 0.05). The Primary Irritation Index (PII) for FII has a value of 0.0216, indicating that it does not cause irritation during patch testing.
THE IDENTIFICATION OF BIOACTIVE COMPOUNDS IN BUTTERFLY PEA (Clitoria ternatea L.) FLOWER SIMPLICIA: A MACROSCOPIC, MICROSCOPIC, AND PHYTOCHEMICAL STUDY Elianasari Elianasari; Herayati Herayati; Kiki Yuli Handayani; Puput Puji Astuti
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 2 No. 2 (2024): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Institut Teknologi Sumatera

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v2i2.2059

Abstract

The butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea L.) is known for its distinctive purple petals. This plant typically grows as an ornamental and can be used as a natural eye remedy and food coloring, safe for human consumption. This study aims to investigate the characteristics and perform a phytochemical screening of the butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea L.). The characteristics of the flower simplicia were examined through macroscopic and microscopic observations, followed by a phytochemical screening process, which included testing for alkaloids, flavonoids, saponins, tannins, and terpenoids/steroids using specific reagents. Additionally, non-specific characteristics, such as moisture content, were analyzed. The results indicate that the flower simplicia has a distinct odor, is tasteless, blue in color, and appears in a dry form. Microscopically, the flower simplicia revealed single grains and thin slices, showing epidermal cell fragments with stomata and crystal fibers with vascular bundles. The phytochemical screening confirmed the presence of alkaloids, saponins, and flavonoids, while tannins and terpenoids/steroids were absent.
Comparative Evaluation of Ethanol and Malic Acid–Glycerol Deep Eutectic Solvent for the Extraction of Antioxidant Phytochemicals from Casuarina equisetifolia Stem Bark Herayati Herayati; Devika Damayanti Silalahi; Indah Puspita Sari; Elianasari Elianasari; Kiki Yuli Handayani; Arsy Fauziah
Biology, Medicine, & Natural Product Chemistry Vol 15, No 2 (2026)
Publisher : Sunan Kalijaga State Islamic University & Society for Indonesian Biodiversity

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.14421/biomedich.2026.152.2025-2031

Abstract

The growing interest in sustainable extraction technologies has promoted the application of deep eutectic solvents (DESs) as environmentally friendly alternatives to conventional organic solvents for recovering bioactive compounds from plant materials. However, comparative studies between ethanol and DES for extracting antioxidant compounds from Casuarina equisetifolia stem bark remain limited. This study evaluated the antioxidant potential of C. equisetifolia stem bark extracts obtained using a malic acid–glycerol DES and 96% ethanol. The DES was synthesized at a glycerol-to-malic acid molar ratio of 2:1 and characterized by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Stem bark extraction was performed using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), followed by qualitative phytochemical screening, determination of total phenolic content (TPC) using the Folin–Ciocalteu method, and antioxidant activity evaluation using the DPPH radical-scavenging assay. FTIR analysis confirmed the successful formation of the DES through characteristic shifts in the O–H and C=O stretching bands, indicating hydrogen-bond interactions between glycerol and malic acid. Qualitative phytochemical screening revealed the presence of phenolics, flavonoids, terpenoids, and saponins in both extracts. The DES extract exhibited a higher total phenolic content (50.3 mg GAE g-1 extract) than the ethanol extract (42.2 mg GAE g-1 extract). Consistently, the DES extract demonstrated stronger antioxidant activity with an IC50 value of 42.2 ppm, compared with 54.6 ppm for the ethanol extract. The enhanced extraction performance of the DES is attributed to its hydrogen-bonding network, which facilitates the recovery of phenolic antioxidants. These findings demonstrate that the malic acid–glycerol DES is an effective green extraction solvent for producing antioxidant-rich extracts from C. equisetifolia stem bark and supports its potential application in the development of sustainable cosmetic ingredients.