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All Journal Arty: Jurnal Seni Rupa AGRISAINTIFIKA Jurnal Ilmu-ilmu Pertanian Brikolase : Jurnal Kajian Teori, Praktik dan Wacana Seni Budaya Rupa Ornamen Jurnal Pengkajian dan Penciptaan Seni Kriya Ecces: Economics, Social, and Development Studies Moda : The Fashion Journal BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Hastagina: Jurnal Kriya dan Indsutri Kreatif
Santoso, Ratna Endah
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Agriculture, Biological Sciences & Forestry Arts Humanities Biochemistry, Genetics & Molecular Biology Economics, Econometrics & Finance Education Materials Science & Nanotechnology Social Sciences Other

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Journal : BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa

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Pewarnaan Alami Benang Katun Menggunakan Angkak (Monascus Purpureus) Yuditira, Syafira Tasya; Santoso, Ratna Endah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 4 No. 2 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v4n2.p152-161

Abstract

Natural dyes can be obtained from plants, animals, minerals, and microorganisms. The microorganism that has the ability to produce pigment is Monascus Purpureus. Angkak, or Monascus purpureus, is the result of the fermentation of rice with the mushroom Monascus Sp. Monascus purpureus mushrooms can produce large amounts of carotenoid pigment, resulting in a red colour. Angkak is often used as a traditional medicine, a food base, and especially as a natural food colourant. However, the knowledge and application of natural dyeing for textiles are still very rare, especially on cotton yarn. This research refers to experimental methods carried out based on data collection in the form of literary studies, trials, observations, and interviews. The process of natural colouring cotton ropes with angkak is carried out in several stages and using several techniques. The natural colouring of the cotton yarn produces varying nude colours. The study resulted in 16 colour variations of 16 combinations of mordant and fixation materials. The results of this study can provide more insight into the natural colouring potential of cotton, thus making it an environmentally friendly and sustainable textile colouring alternative in the textile industry.
Transformasi Busana Pengantin Perempuan Lampung dalam Perancangan Adibusana Pratama, Romi; Santoso, Ratna Endah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 4 No. 2 (2023)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.26740/baju.v4n2.p171-180

Abstract

The story behind this work is because there are many people who misinterpret the use of Haute Couture, the term is protected under the Federation de la haute couture et de la mode, even though Indonesian itself has the same term, namely adibusana. Apart from that, the factor behind this design is that there are many generations now who do not know or even leave the tradition of advanced fashion at the level of the shallot bone tribe. The lack of exploration of the wedding dress is the background for the transformation in adibusana design. The design method used is Transforming Tradition by Adhi Nugraha, there are eight important points that can be combined or selected, namely the ATUMICS method. Based on the design process carried out, the results of the collection were obtained with 6 evening dress designs and 4 shoe design to be realized, and 2 bags. This collection required approximately 400 meters of gold thread, 1258 meters of textile pipe, 480 individual chrysolite flowers from textile pipes, thousands of sequins and swarovski, and took approximately 2000 hours to put together the garments.
Upcycling Perca Brokat dengan Tule Menggunakan Metode Sirkular Resource-Pressure Hafidzah, Serena; Santoso, Ratna Endah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 1 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

The majority of textiles today are inorganic waste that requires a lengthy processing process to decompose. Although there are various methods and stages for processing textile scraps, there are still limited techniques used for processing brocade and tulle scraps. This design represents one sustainable waste utilization option using the practice of upcycling brocade scraps into vests, based on the resource-pressure circular design method designed according to six design parameters, namely product mass, primary material content, product lifespan, manufacturing waste, recycling, and decomposition. The objective of this method is to maximize the utilization of secondary raw materials (waste) in production, transforming brocade and tulle scraps into vest garments that serve as versatile and unisex complements for various occasions.
Pengembangan Bentuk Kebaya Bangaw dengan Sumber Ide Legenda Batoe Tinagat pada Perancangan Adibusana Anakirin, Nurin Fauhan; Santoso, Ratna Endah
BAJU: Journal of Fashion and Textile Design Unesa Vol. 5 No. 2 (2024)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Surabaya

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Abstract

Foreign cultures that enter Indonesia are slowly eroding the existence of local culture. There is an urgency to preserve and introduce the Tidung Tribe to the community, by developing this traditional kebaya bangaw traditional clothing into a more modern and relevant form to attract the interest of the community today. This design applies the transforming tradition method with 7 stages, namely ATUMICS, with Artefact which is the design object and six basic elements, namely Technique, Utility, Material, Icon, Concept, and Shape to create product innovations or systems that are traditional products so that they can be accepted by modern society while maintaining the cultural values in it. This design produced 9 evening fashion designs, but from the 9 designs, 4 designs were selected to be realized. Based on this design, it can be concluded that the traditional clothing of the Bangaw kebaya can be developed into the design of the costume while maintaining its uniqueness and the source of the idea of the legend of Batoe Tinagat can be used as a source of inspiration in designing the motif of the costume to create an exploration of the more modern traditional clothing of the Tidung tribe through the stages of visual processing, construction, and surface processing.
Co-Authors Affanti, Tiwi Bina Aisyi, Dalal Hibatul Anakirin, Nurin Fauhan Ardhanareswari, Ardantiya Reine Arief Iman Santoso, Arief Iman Ayasofia, Addina Aufa Emi Widiyanti Ertimi, Basem Hafidzah, Serena Herawati, Putri Siswi Heru Irianto Josef, Adji Isworo Lira Anindita Utami Malik Cahyadin Mataram, Sayid Pratama, Romi Rhina Uchyani Fajarningsih Sakuntalawati, LV Ratna Devi Salsabila, Azka Sarwono - - sarwono, sarwono - Suherlan, Yayan Sulistyono, IF Bambang Utami, Lira Anundita Wahyuningsih, Novita Widyamurti, Nidyah Widyastuti, Theresia Yuditira, Syafira Tasya Zakiyah, Naela Ni’matuz