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Penerapan Teknik Resin pada Kain Sebagai Elemen Estetika Bustier yang Dipadukan dengan Gaun Batik Wastra Bernuansa Etnik Modern Silvia Ratna Sari; Adhi Kusumastuti
Jurnal Kajian Ilmu Pendidikan (JKIP) Vol. 7 No. 1 (2026): Jurnal Kajian Ilmu Pendidikan (JKIP)
Publisher : Lembaga Riset dan Inovasi Almatani

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.55583/jkip.v7i1.1870

Abstract

Haute couture adalah jenis busana khusus yang mewakili keterampilan teknis, filosofi estetika, dan nilai simbolis dalam dunia mode kelas atas. Bustier, yang merupakan bagian penting dari konstruksinya, mencerminkan pemahaman mendalam tentang anatomi perempuan dan merupakan simbol kekuatan dan estetika tubuh perempuan. Dengan penggunaan material baru seperti resin dan teknik patchwork satin, struktur bustier menjadi lebih kuat dan memiliki tampilan kontemporer yang tetap fungsional. Dikombinasikan dengan batik wastra, terutama batik tulis dan cap, dihasilkan cerita visual yang menggabungkan tradisi dan upaya seni. Sementara batik cap menawarkan efisiensi dan keberlanjutan produksi, batik tulis menawarkan nilai filosofis dan fleksibilitas untuk desain. Sinergi antara batik wastra dan bustier resin dalam gaun haute couture menghasilkan busana kontemporer yang memiliki nilai seni tinggi dan membawa identitas budaya dan peluang bisnis di tengah arus globalisasi mode.
The Evolution of Bio-Mordant Research in Natural Textile Dyeing: A Bibliometric Study Retnaini Nur Tafi'i; Adhi Kusumastuti
TEKNOBUGA: Jurnal Teknologi Busana dan Boga Vol. 14 No. 2 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Semarang

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.15294/teknobuga.v14i2.41754

Abstract

The growing global attention to sustainability has driven the development of environmentally friendly alternatives in textile dyeing processes, one of which is the utilization of bio-mordants as substitutes for metal mordants. Although experimental research on bio-mordants continues to expand, systematic mapping of trends, knowledge structures, and research directions in bio-mordant studies remains limited. Therefore, this study aims to comprehensively analyze the development of bio-mordant research in natural textile dyeing using a bibliometric approach. This study adopts the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) framework, with data sourced from the Scopus database. A literature search using the keywords “bio” and “mordan*” yielded 329 documents, which, after screening and the application of inclusion criteria, resulted in 71 articles selected for further analysis. Bibliometric analysis was conducted using VOSviewer software to map publication trends, geographical distribution, institutional affiliations, author productivity, and keyword co-occurrence. The results indicate that bio-mordant research has experienced significant growth since 2020, reaching its peak in 2023, with publications predominantly originating from countries with strong textile industries. The main keywords identified reflect a close relationship between bio-mordants, natural dyes, color fastness, and sustainability. These findings highlight the theoretical and practical relevance of bio-mordants in supporting the transition toward more sustainable textile dyeing processes and provide opportunities for future research.
Quality Testing of Iretsu Dyeing Result on Primissima Cotton and Chiffon Fabrics Using Water Glass as a Fixator Meishinta Alvionita Junia Mirantika; Adhi Kusumastuti
TEKNOBUGA: Jurnal Teknologi Busana dan Boga Vol. 14 No. 2 (2026)
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Semarang

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.15294/teknobuga.v14i2.41798

Abstract

Textiles are essential materials for human clothing, and dyeing plays a crucial role in enhancing their aesthetic value. Textile dyeing generally employs natural and synthetic dyes. In recent years, synthetic dyes have been more widely used due to their availability, efficiency, and applicability to various fabric types. However, certain synthetic dyes are specifically designed for particular fabrics. Iretsu dye, for instance, is commonly used for polyester-based textiles. This study aimed to evaluate the dyeing quality of iretsu synthetic dye on two different fabrics, namely primissima cotton and chiffon, using two dye formulations with the same immersion time. An experimental method was employed by dyeing primissima cotton and chiffon fabrics using two dye concentrations, 12 g and 24 g, with an immersion time of 1 hour. Water glass was applied as a color fixative. The color direction of the dyed fabrics was assessed through an organoleptic test conducted by panelists consisting of 2022 cohort students of the Fashion Education Study Program, Universitas Negeri Semarang, who had completed the Textile Dyeing Techniques course. The results of the organoleptic test indicated that primissima cotton dyed with a 12 g formulation produced a pewter color direction (50%), while chiffon dyed with the same formulation resulted in a flint color direction (50%). Using the 24 g formulation, primissima cotton exhibited a porpoise color direction (55%), whereas chiffon predominantly showed a flint color direction (70%). These findings suggest that variations in dye concentration influence the resulting color direction on different fabric types when dyed with iretsu synthetic dye.
Gaun “Divine Armor of Grace” Dengan Bustier Resin: Penciptaan dan Uji Kelayakan Estetika Busana Couture Nimas Ayu Pawestri Atmaja; Adhi Kusumastuti
SENTRI: Jurnal Riset Ilmiah Vol. 5 No. 1 (2026): SENTRI : Jurnal Riset Ilmiah, Januari 2026
Publisher : LPPM Institut Pendidikan Nusantara Global

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.55681/sentri.v5i1.5427

Abstract

This study employs a practice-based research approach that emphasizes the process of design and creative practice as a primary source of knowledge production. The research focuses on the creation of a conceptual couture evening gown entitled Divine Armor of Grace, which represents symbols of protection, strength, and elegance as expressions of feminine identity. The design explores the use of a resin bustier as a non-conventional material combined with textile elements to create a sculptural yet aesthetic silhouette, while integrating batik as a representation of local cultural values. Product feasibility was evaluated through expert validation involving three expert validators, consisting of two fashion design experts and one academic expert in fashion studies. The evaluation covered six aspects, namely design, sizing accuracy, sewing technique, aesthetics, garment performance, and uniqueness. Data were collected through observation and product evaluation instruments and analyzed using descriptive Persentase analysis. The results indicate that the Divine Armor of Grace gown achieved feasibility scores within the range of 81.25–100%, categorized as Highly feasible, with the highest scores obtained in design, aesthetics, performance, and uniqueness, while sewing technique showed comparatively lower scores indicating areas for further refinement. These findings confirm that the Divine Armor of Grace gown is highly feasible as a conceptual couture work developed through a practice-based research approach and contributes to the exploration of innovative materials in contemporary fashion design.
PENGARUH WORK-LIFE BALANCE IBU BEKERJA TERHADAP KESEJAHTERAAN EMOSIONAL ANAK DAN KEHARMONISAN KELUARGA DI DUSUN NGAGLIK Umi Miza Wirdani; Adhi Kusumastuti
FOKUS : Kajian Bimbingan dan Konseling dalam Pendidikan Vol. 9 No. 3 (2026): Vol 9, No 3 Mei 2026
Publisher : IKIP Siliwangi

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.22460/fokus.v9i3.31192

Abstract

The main goal of this research is to understand how the work-life balance of working mothers affects the emotional well-being of children and family harmony in Ngaglik Village. The type of research used is explanatory research with a quantitative approach. The number of participants in the study was 36, and this was a complete sample. The data analysis in this research was carried out using descriptive analysis and path analysis methods. To analyze the data using the IBM SPSS Statisticsprogram for Windows. The path analysis results show that the variable Work-Life Balance for Working Mothers (X) has a significant effect on the Emotional Well-being of Children (Y1) with a significance value of 0.001 (0.001 < 0.05) and on Family Harmony (Y2) with a significance value of 0.001 (0.001 <0.05). The batter work-life balance working mothers have, the better emosional well-being of their children and the family harmony that is created.
The Influence of Fashion Technology Courses on the Learning Outcomes of Children's Fashion Production Courses on Students of the Class of 2023 of the Fashion Education Study Program, Semarang State University Melinda Novitasari; Adhi Kusumastuti
Jurnal Penelitian Pendidikan Vol. 43 No. 1 (2026): April 2026
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Semarang

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.15294/jpp.v43i1.41810

Abstract

Vocational education in fashion aims to equip students with theoretical knowledge and practical skills relevant to the demands of the industry. In the Fashion Education curriculum, Fashion Technology is positioned as a basic course that supports applied courses such as Children's Fashion Production. This study aims to examine the influence of the learning outcomes of the Fashion Technology course on the learning outcomes of students in the Children's Fashion Production course. This study uses a quantitative approach with an ex post facto design. The population consists of 82 students of the class of 2023 of the Fashion Education Study Program at Semarang State University, and a total sampling method was used. Data is collected through documentation of student academic data records. Data analysis included descriptive statistics and inferential analysis using simple linear regression with SPSS version 26. The results of the regression analysis showed that the learning outcomes of Fashion Technology had a significant positive influence on the learning outcomes of Children's Fashion Production (F = 24.655; p < 0.05). The coefficient of determination (R²) was 0.233, indicating that Fashion Technology contributed 23.3% to the variance in student achievement in Children's Fashion Production. The regression coefficient (B = 0.457) showed that higher achievement in Fashion Technology was associated with better performance in applied courses. These findings affirm the importance of Fashion Technology as a foundational course that supports students' success in practical fashion production and highlight the need for strong alignment between basic and applied courses in fashion vocational education.
Quality Assessment of Ecoprinted Tablecloths Using Avocado Leaves with Tunjung and Limestone Mordants Arlina Lilayanti; Adhi Kusumastuti
Jurnal Penelitian Pendidikan Vol. 43 No. 2 (2026): October 2026
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Semarang

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.15294/jpp.v43i2.57578

Abstract

This study aims to determine the quality of avocado leaf ecoprint results using tunjung and limestone mordants on tablecloths. This study uses an experimental method with a quantitative approach. The object of the study is primissima cotton fabric processed into a tablecloth with an avocado leaf ecoprint motif. The independent variable in this study is the type of mordant, namely tunjung and limestone, while the dependent variable is the visual quality of the ecoprint results which is focused on the clarity of the motif and the appearance of the colour. Data collection was carried out through organoleptic tests by three expert panellists using a rating scale of 1-5. Data were analysed descriptively in the form of percentages. The results showed that the limestone mordant obtained a percentage value of 34.44% with a less category, while the tunjung mordant obtained a percentage value of 55.56% with a sufficient category. These findings indicate that the tunjung mordant produces better visual quality ecoprint compared to limestone, especially in terms of clarity of motif and colour intensity. Thus, the type of mordant makes a difference in the quality of the avocado leaf ecoprint results, and the tunjung mordant is more recommended for producing more optimal ecoprint tablecloth products.
Kebaya Fashion Quality 'Veloura Merupa' with the Application of Illusion Bustier Revalin Trisany; Wahyu Fitriani; Adhi Kusumastuti; Yoela Meidiana
Journal of Creativity Student Vol. 9 No. 3s (2026): Special Edition
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Semarang

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.15294/jcs.v9i2.56046

Abstract

Modern kebaya continues to develop through the application of various fashion design and construction techniques that aim to improve aesthetic value and product quality. One of the techniques that is widely used is the bustier illusion, which is a construction technique that creates a visual illusion on the bustier so that it produces an elegant look and blends in with the wearer's body. This article aims to describe the quality of Veloura Merupa kebaya clothing that applies the illusion bustier technique. The method used is descriptive with a product analysis approach. The aspects analyzed include design quality, fashion construction, material suitability, application of decorative techniques, and the quality of the final appearance of the fashion. The results of the analysis show that the Veloura Merupa kebaya has good quality through the application of an illusion bustier that is able to shape the body silhouette proportionally, the use of materials that support comfort and aesthetics, and application details that give a luxurious and elegant impression. The combination of burgundy colors, transparent lace, draping, and sequin applications strengthens the feminine and classy character of modern kebaya. Thus, the application of the illusion bustier on the Veloura Merupa kebaya is able to improve the visual quality and aesthetic value of the overall fashion.
Visualization of Corset Transparency Techniques nd Velvet Fabric Textures in the “Viraadhya” Evening Gown Based on the Design Characteristics of Jacob Wil Aditia Wahyu Kusuma; Glenda Talitha Br Sembiring; Ellizabeth Cecillia L.; Putri Adelaide Rohim; Adhi Kusumastuti
Journal of Creativity Student Vol. 9 No. 3s (2026): Special Edition
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Semarang

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.15294/jcs.v9i2.56298

Abstract

The development of contemporary fashion has transformed clothing from a functional necessity into a medium of visual expression that embodies both aesthetic and symbolic values. This study aims to analyze the design characteristics of Jacob Wil as reflected in the evening gown “Viraadhya” through the visualization of corset transparency techniques and velvet fabric texture as key elements in shaping the garment’s aesthetic value. The research employs a qualitative approach using a descriptive-analytical method. Data were collected through visual observation, documentation studies, and literature reviews. The analysis focuses on design aesthetics, garment construction, material texture, and fashion semiotics. The findings indicate that “Viraadhya” successfully represents Jacob Wil’s distinctive design  characteristics through the application of a structured mermaid silhouette, the exploration of transparent corset construction, and the combination of velvet and transparent materials that create a visual contrast between strength and softness. The corset transparency technique functions not only as a constructive element but also as an aesthetic strategy that reinforces the garment’s visual identity. Meanwhile, the use of velvet fabric contributes a sense of luxury, drama, and visual depth that supports the overall design narrative. This study demonstrates that the exploration of garment construction and material innovation can serve as an important strategy in establishing visual identity within contemporary evening gown design.  Keywords: Corset transparency, velvet fabric, evening gown, Jacob Wil, fashion Design.
Modern Tailoring in Linear Rebellion Fashion Collection at Danjyo Hiyoji Fadillah Riffalia; Marthatiar Withney Elvyara; Adhi Kusumastuti; Michaela Rouli Margareta Siahaan
Journal of Creativity Student Vol. 9 No. 3s (2026): Special Edition
Publisher : Universitas Negeri Semarang

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.15294/jcs.v9i2.56677

Abstract

The fashion industry continues to develop along with the increasing demand for products that possess not only aesthetic value but also a strong visual identity. Danjyo Hiyoji is one of Indonesia’s local fashion brands recognized for its contemporary streetwear concept combined with modern tailoring. This article aims to describe the development process of the Linear Rebellion fashion collection through the application of modern tailoring and decorative details as a final project during the Industrial Practice Program at Danjyo Hiyoji. The study employed a descriptive quantitative method with a design development approach supported by observation, documentation, literature review, and product assessment by panelists. The development stages included visual research, moodboard preparation, concept development, design creation, material selection, production process, and final product evaluation. The Linear Rebellion concept was represented through vertical stripe motifs symbolizing order and exposed zipper details symbolizing courage in exploring fashion design. The evaluation results indicated that the collection achieved an average score of 95.93%, categorized as excellent. The design aspect obtained 96.66%, size 98.90%, aesthetics 85.56%, sewing technique 100%, garment performance 98.90%, and uniqueness 95.56%. These findings demonstrate that the application of modern tailoring and decorative details successfully produced a fashion collection with excellent construction quality, functionality, aesthetics, and a strong visual identity in accordance with the design characteristics of Danjyo Hiyoji.
Co-Authors Abdul Mufid Achmadi, Taofan Ali Ade Novi Nurul Ihsani Aditia Wahyu Kusuma Agustin, Eny Widhia Aliffianti, Febbi Amanah, Intihaul Amelia, Dhea Annafie Aina Nabilla Arlina Lilayanti Aryo Baskoro Utomo Atika Atika Atika Atika Bagas Satria Adjie Pratama Cahyani, Yustin Sagita Dwi Cellomita Salsabila Choirina, Rofiatul Dimas Afrianto Dwi Widjanarko Eko Supraptono Ellizabeth Cecillia L. Eny Widhia Agustin Erna Setyowati Ester Kusumawati Santosa Fadillah Riffalia Fahada, Muhammad Raja Fahira, Jian Faridi, Abdurrachman Fitriyana, Deni Fajar Ghina Anjar Firossa Glenda Talitha Br Sembiring Godham Eko Saputro Handayani, Suci Meta HARIANI, ELIZABETH Hendra Dedi Kriswanto, Hendra Dedi Hidayah, Chincyn Imam Adi Nugroho Indra Nurul Hidayat Intihaul Amanah Ismanto Ismanto K, Elga Hayu Kamis, Arasinah Khadijah Rania Mulachela Kharisma Putri Lestari Khojanatun, Khojanatun Laila Nurul Himmah Lenita Eka Mayasari Lestari, Kharisma Putri Luthfianeza, Zulva Alya Marlangen, Retno Marthatiar Withney Elvyara Masugino Meishinta Alvionita Junia Mirantika Melinda Novitasari Mia Arifah Michaela Rouli Margareta Siahaan Mukti, Asteen Retno Mulachela, Khadijah Rania Mu’daim, Syarifah Nadhifa Zulfa Aulia Naharuddin Naharuddin Nahdiyah, Ayu Najibulloh, Gunawan Muhammad Nanda Lidya Fatimah Natasha Shella Putri Naura Atika Cahya Anggrayni Nimas Ayu Pawestri Atmaja Nisa, Zakiya Ayu Novitasari, Neny Nuansa Kinanti Sabda Gusti Nur Aini, Intan Nur Hidayah, Erika Wahyu Nurvitasari, Fitria Octavianti Paramitha Okvisia, Yovika Pangestika, Senjany Julaeshy Phusavat, Kongkiti Pudji Astuti Puja Putri Kurnia Dewi Putri Adelaide Rohim Putri, Alda Talia Putri, Puja Rahmatika Lingga Raharjanti, Aliyya Retnaini Nur Tafi&#039;i Retno Marlangen Revalin Trisany Rina Rachmawati Rizqi Fitri Naryanto Rohmawati, Tri Rosidah Rosidah Sagita, Amelia Samsudin Anis Sani, Diyan Satwika Sari, Silvia Ratna Shofi Fahia Anbarwati Sicilia Sawitri Silvia Ratna Sari Sita Nurmasitah Siti Fiki Ikmah, Siti Fiki Sobah Al Falah Solikhati, Putri Sonika Maulana Sri Endah Wahyuningsih Triliana, Kezya Umi Miza Wirdani Wahyu Fitriani WATI, HENI FERA Wulansari Prasetyaningtyas Yeri Sutopo Yoela Meidiana Zaenal Abidin Zulaekah, Dewi