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All Journal World Chemical Engineering Journal JURNAL INTEGRASI PROSES Teknika: Jurnal Sains dan Teknologi Biology, Medicine, & Natural Product Chemistry Aplikasia: Jurnal Aplikasi Ilmu-Ilmu Agama JURNAL FARMASIMED (JFM) Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Journal of Chemistry Sciences and Education
Herayati, Herayati
Center Of Excellence For Local Food Innovation University Of Sultan Ageng Tirtayasa Department Of Chemical Enginering, Universitas Sultan Ageng Tirtayasa Banten
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Natural-Based Cosmetics: Trends, Challenges, and Scientific Innovations Herayati, Herayati; Elianasari, Elianasari
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 2 No. 2 (2024): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM), Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v2i2.1992

Abstract

The increasing demand for natural-based cosmetics has reshaped the beauty industry, driven by consumers seeking sustainable, eco-friendly, and ethically sourced products. This review explores the current trends, formulation challenges, and scientific innovations in the development of natural-based cosmetics. Key natural ingredients, such as plant extracts, oils, and waxes, are discussed in terms of their benefits, limitations, and formulation complexities. The article also addresses significant hurdles, including stability issues, the need for natural preservation systems, and consumer expectations for product efficacy and sensory experience. Advances in green chemistry, biotechnology, and encapsulation technologies are highlighted as critical drivers for overcoming these challenges. Innovations such as plant stem cells, microbial fermentation, and nanoemulsions have enhanced the performance and stability of natural actives. Looking ahead, the future of natural-based cosmetics lies in further integration of green biotechnologies to create more effective and sustainable bioactive ingredients. By embracing these innovations, the beauty industry is poised to meet consumer demands for high-performance products that are not only natural but also sustainable and ethically transparent.
THE IDENTIFICATION OF BIOACTIVE COMPOUNDS IN BUTTERFLY PEA (Clitoria ternatea L.) FLOWER SIMPLICIA: A MACROSCOPIC, MICROSCOPIC, AND PHYTOCHEMICAL STUDY Elianasari, Elianasari; Herayati, Herayati; Handayani, Kiki Yuli; Astuti, Puput Puji
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 2 No. 2 (2024): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM), Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v2i2.2059

Abstract

The butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea L.) is known for its distinctive purple petals. This plant typically grows as an ornamental and can be used as a natural eye remedy and food coloring, safe for human consumption. This study aims to investigate the characteristics and perform a phytochemical screening of the butterfly pea flower (Clitoria ternatea L.). The characteristics of the flower simplicia were examined through macroscopic and microscopic observations, followed by a phytochemical screening process, which included testing for alkaloids, flavonoids, saponins, tannins, and terpenoids/steroids using specific reagents. Additionally, non-specific characteristics, such as moisture content, were analyzed. The results indicate that the flower simplicia has a distinct odor, is tasteless, blue in color, and appears in a dry form. Microscopically, the flower simplicia revealed single grains and thin slices, showing epidermal cell fragments with stomata and crystal fibers with vascular bundles. The phytochemical screening confirmed the presence of alkaloids, saponins, and flavonoids, while tannins and terpenoids/steroids were absent.
THE POTENTIAL OF FRAGRANT PANDAN LEAVES AS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS: PHYTOCHEMICAL ANALYSIS Nurbaiti, Siwi; Bella Triyanti, Sinta; Herayati, Herayati
Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics Vol. 3 No. 1 (2025): Indonesian Journal of Cosmetics
Publisher : Lembaga Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM), Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Lampung Selatan, Lampung, Indonesia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.35472/ijcos.v3i1.2277

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate the phytochemical composition of Pandanus amaryllifolius (fragrant pandan) leaf extract as a preliminary assessment of its potential application in herbal cosmetic formulations. The extraction was performed using the maceration method with 95% ethanol as the solvent. Qualitative phytochemical screening was conducted to identify major classes of secondary metabolites. The results confirmed the presence of alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, polyphenols, and saponins, while steroids and triterpenoids were not detected. Each identified compound group is known to contribute important biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial effects, which are desirable in topical skincare products. These findings provide foundational evidence that P. amaryllifolius leaves are a promising natural source of multifunctional bioactive compounds for future cosmeceutical development.
Perbandingan Metode Ekstraksi Maserasi, Sokletasi, Dan Sonikasi Terhadap Nilai Rendemen Ekstrak Rimpang Kunyit (Curcuma Longa L.) Annisa Rahma Aryanti; Made Helen Susanti; Anjar Hermadi Saputro; Herayati; Indah Puspita Sari; Syahjoko Saputra, Iwan
Journal of Chemistry Sciences and Education Vol 2 No 01 (2025): Journal of Chemistry Sciences and Education
Publisher : PT. Pubsains Nur Cendekia

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.69606/jcse.v2i01.237

Abstract

This study aims to determine the comparison of maceration, soxhletation, and sonication extraction methods on the yield value of turmeric rhizome (Curcuma longa L.). Extraction was carried out using methanol and n-hexane solvents. The extraction process produces turmeric extract with different colors, textures, and aromas depending on the method used. The maceration, soxhletation, and sonication methods have different impacts on the yield of the extract, but the basic principle is the same in filtering active substances from the sample. The yield value obtained from the maceration method is 0.4996% soxhletation 0.0013% and sonication 0.0071%. The maceration method is proven to provide the highest extract yield compared to the soxhletation and sonication methods, which is 0.4996%.
Synthesis, Characterization, and Micellar Behavior of Amphiphilic Chitosan Bearing Sulfate and Anisaldehyde Imine Groups Herayati, Herayati; Wahyuningrum, Deana; Bima, Damar Nurwahyu; Sari, Indah Puspita
Biology, Medicine, & Natural Product Chemistry Vol 14, No 2 (2025)
Publisher : Sunan Kalijaga State Islamic University & Society for Indonesian Biodiversity

Show Abstract | Download Original | Original Source | Check in Google Scholar | DOI: 10.14421/biomedich.2025.142.905-909

Abstract

Amphiphilic chitosan derivatives bearing sulfate and anisaldehyde imine (anisimine) groups were successfully synthesized and characterized for potential applications as functional biomaterials. The synthesis involved two key steps: (1) sulfation of chitosan using chlorosulfonic acid to introduce O-sulfate groups, and (2) Schiff base formation via reaction with p-anisaldehyde to generate N-anisimine functionalities. Structural modifications were confirmed by Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, which showed characteristic absorption bands at ~1250 cm-¹ and ~820 cm-¹ corresponding to O=S=O stretching of sulfate, and a C=N stretch at ~1640 cm-¹ indicating imine formation. Proton nuclear magnetic resonance (1H-NMR) spectra further verified the successful attachment of aromatic protons from p-anisaldehyde and the disappearance of primary amine peaks, confirming imination. The amphiphilic behavior and micelle-forming ability of the N-anisimine-O-sulfated (NAOS) chitosan were evaluated using pyrene as a hydrophobic fluorescent probe for determining the critical micelle concentration (CMC), which was found to be 0.012 mg/mL. The observed low CMC value indicates strong self-assembly capability in aqueous media. These results suggest that NAOS chitosan possesses promising structural and surface-active properties suitable for advanced applications in drug delivery and cosmetic formulations.
Co-Authors Agus Rochmat Agus Rochmat Agus Rochmat Agus Rochmat Agus Rochmat Ahmad Buhari Ahmad Bukhari Ahmad Hariri Ambarita, Petrus Alvin Peter Anjar Hermadi Saputro Annisa Rahma Aryanti Astuti, Puput Puji Bella Triyanti, Sinta Damar Nurwahyu Bima Deana Wahyuningrum Dela Ayu Fitria Elianasari Elianasari, Elianasari Fajri Ikhsan Handayani, Kiki Yuli Hani Nurul Fadhilah Ika Rifqiawati Ina Indriana Ina Indriana Indah Puspita Sari Indah Puspita Sari, Indah Puspita Karen Erlangga Lia Nurliana M. Ganiadi Made Helen Susanti Maryani, Yeyen Meri Yulvianti Meri Yulvianti Muhammad Farhan Muhammad Triyogo Adiwibowo Nurbaiti, Siwi Petrus, Dhannydon Shefia Dhiya Khansa Simatupang, Petrus Edison Siti Fadilla Suaedah Suaedah Syahjoko Saputra, Iwan Syarif Abdullah Tia Azzahra Putri Tifani Pardede Ullaya Syarifah Veni Putri Nurhayati Widya Ernayati Kosimaningrum Yayan Maryani Yazid Rukmayadi Yeyen Maryani Yeyen Maryani Yeyen Maryani Yeyen Maryani